Anchor Church Caves Routes
Anchor Church Caves
Due to the rock, gradings given here are suspect, especially in the E grades. All the routes are serious because no protection can be placed. The climbs are described from left to right.
1 A Pebble Too Far 8m E1 5c
Direct over the largest part of the overhang to a decaying tree root a few feet left of Monks Folly.
D. Jump, 1989.
2 Monks Folly 8m E1 5c
The overhanging wall on the far left-hand end of the crag can be climbed by a line ascending leftwards to a tree.
3. Close Shave 10m HVS 5a
The arÍte to the left of the first window, trending left to the tree.
4 Pillar of Wisdom 10m S
Climbs the main rounded arete starting at either side of the window.
M Sheldrake and M. Hood, March 1981.
5 Hermit's Crack 10m VS 4b
The obvious groove in the back of the cliff.
6 The Ramp 10m VS 4b
Start in Hermit's Crackbut trend rightwards up the obvious ramp. Serious.
7 Pebble Dash 12m E2 5b
Start just left of the left window on the front face. Climb the wall direct.
8 Hermit's Finger 12m E2 5a
Climb the crack line between the two caves.
9 PS170 12m HVS 5a
Starts to the right of the window, climbing past a pocket then trending left. Maybe harder than HVS.
P. Sfidever and M. James.
10 Monkey Business 12m VS 4c
The arÍte just left of the cave. Maybe harder than VS.
11 Doorway 10m not done
Bridge up the doorway and go up over a small roof.
Don't forget the Girdle (1-11 ) above the nettles!
Twenty metres to the right there is some clean rock with three obvious pockets at the bottom. These may have been cut to secure a fence.
12 New Boots - New Routes 10m VS 4c
Climbs the face to the right of three obvious pockets, then up a flake to finish. Overgrown.
13 Pete's Progress 10m D
The obvious large chimney at the right-hand end of the crag.
Twenty metres further to the right there is:
14 Sandy Chimney 15m M
Follow the right-hand branch of the obvious split chimney all the way up to the top. At the bottom there is a left-hand branch also.
Further along a ramp leads up behind some trees to a fierce overhanging upper tier. No routes here yet. Nor on the right arÍte.
†Much further right is a small cave, the right wall of which has possibilities.