Anchor Church Caves Routes

 

Local Links

 

Leicestershire Climbs

 

Leicestershire

Intro & History

 

NEW ROUTES

 

Anchor Church Caves

 

Bardon Hill

 

Beacon Hill

 

Blackbrook Reservoir

 

Bradgate Park

 

The Brand

 

Cademan Woods & Broad Hill

 

Carver's Rocks

 

Cliffe Hill Quarry

 

Craig Buddon

 

Enderby Quarry

 

Finedon Slabs

 

Forest Rock

 

Grace Dieu Viaduct and Craglets

 

Granitethorpe Quarry

 

Groby Industrial Estate

 

Hangingstone Quarry

 

Hangingstone Rocks

 

High Sharpley

 

Huncote Quarry

 

Markfield Quarry

 

Minor Outcrops and Boulders

 

Morley Quarry

 

Mountsorrel Crags

 

Nunckley Quarry

 

Oaks Pinnacle

 

Outwoods Crag

 

Pocketgate Quarry

 

Slawston Bridge

 

Whitwick Quarry

 

Whitwick Rocks

 

Climbing Walls

 

Index

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Introduction and Location

 

THE CLIMBS

Due to the rock, gradings given here are suspect, especially in the E grades. All the routes are serious because no protection can be placed. The climbs are described from left to right.

 

 

1 A Pebble Too Far 8m E1 5c

Direct over the largest part of the overhang to a decaying tree root a few feet left of Monks Folly.

D. Jump, 1989.

 

2 Monks Folly 8m E1 5c

The overhanging wall on the far left-hand end of the crag can be climbed by a line ascending leftwards to a tree.

 

3. Close Shave 10m HVS 5a

The arÍte to the left of the first window, trending left to the tree.

P. Stidever.

 

4 Pillar of Wisdom 10m S

Climbs the main rounded arete starting at either side of the window.

M Sheldrake and M. Hood, March 1981.

 

5 Hermit's Crack 10m VS 4b

The obvious groove in the back of the cliff.

 

6 The Ramp 10m VS 4b

Start in Hermit's Crackbut trend rightwards up the obvious ramp. Serious.

 

7 Pebble Dash 12m E2 5b

Start just left of the left window on the front face. Climb the wall direct.

 

8 Hermit's Finger 12m E2 5a

Climb the crack line between the two caves.

 

9 PS170 12m HVS 5a

Starts to the right of the window, climbing past a pocket then trending left. Maybe harder than HVS.

P. Sfidever and M. James.

 

10 Monkey Business 12m VS 4c

The arÍte just left of the cave. Maybe harder than VS.

M. James.

 

11 Doorway 10m not done

Bridge up the doorway and go up over a small roof.

 

Don't forget the Girdle (1-11 ) above the nettles!

 

Twenty metres to the right there is some clean rock with three obvious pockets at the bottom. These may have been cut to secure a fence.

 

12 New Boots - New Routes 10m VS 4c

Climbs the face to the right of three obvious pockets, then up a flake to finish. Overgrown.

M. James.

 

13 Pete's Progress 10m D

The obvious large chimney at the right-hand end of the crag.

M. James.

 

Twenty metres further to the right there is:

 

14 Sandy Chimney 15m M

Follow the right-hand branch of the obvious split chimney all the way up to the top. At the bottom there is a left-hand branch also.

 

Further along a ramp leads up behind some trees to a fierce overhanging upper tier. No routes here yet. Nor on the right arÍte.

Much further right is a small cave, the right wall of which has possibilities.