Groby Industrial Estate
Groby Industrial Estate
OS ref. SK521076 (Sheet 140)
SITUATION and CHARACTER
Groby Industrial Estate has been built in a granite quarry that has been mostly filled in. The climbs are situated on the small amount of rock that remains above the infill. The rock is in amongst the industrial buildings. Altogether an unusual place. The routes face north and are green in the winter. This is compensated by the wooden staircase that leads from the top (its a car park) to the bottom making a very easy and unusual way back down. Past a huge steel gate there is a higher, as yet unclimbed, section of a crag. The routes listed are on the "accessible" crag. The name for the old quarry was Groby Village Quarry. It was there in 1835 and it was still working in 1910.
APPROACH and ACCESS
Groby is situated beside the A50 between Leicester and the M1 . From the centre of the village take the Ratby road. After a short distance turn right following the signs to the Industrial Estate. You can see the crag straight ahead between the sheds. Access has always been a problem as the routes rise directly off of the service road. However, it didn't seem to be anybody's function to tell you to leave. Currently (April 1992) the whole estate has been taken over by Druck and they are building a gatehouse and barrier. This may mean the end of yet another climbing area, but an access agreement might be possible because climbing has little effect on the estate.
Starting from the left as you enter the quarry:
1 Ants Nest 5m VD 5c
Climb up the left-hand side of the first slab on small holds.
2 The Path 5m D
Climb the centre of the slab.
3 I Spy 5m VD
Climb up 1m right of The Path.
Further to the right:
4 Buffalo Bill 5m VD
Climb the left end of the overhang on large holds.
5 Zigger-Zagger 5m VS 4c
Climb the centre of the overhang, also on large holds.
6 Overhaul 7m VD
The edge of the slab 1 m right of Zigger-Zagger.
7 Vegetation 7m VD
The slab 1 m right of Overhaul.
8 Groovy 7m D
The groove 1 m right of Vegetation.
9 Backsnapper 5m S
Climb the left end of the wall on small holds only.
10 Torch 5m VD
Climb the centre of the wall 1 m right of Backsnapper.
11 Under The Steps 5m VD
The short wall under the steps.
12 Pins and Needles 5m VD
The obvious prominent groove under the steps.
13 The Entertainer 5m VS 4c
Climb the centre of the slab near the steps. A long reach helps
14 African Road 5m VD
The right side of the slab behind a bush.
15 William 5m S
1 m right of African Road. On to the slab and up.
Seven metres to the right is
16 The Looser 5m VD
Climb up the middle of the block on large holds.
17 Bramble 5m S
1 m right of The Looser up the side of the block.
18 Trlcky Dlcky 5m S
1 m right of Bramble, up the wall.
19 Gardener's Crack 5m VD
The "crack" half a metre right of Tricky Dicky.
20 M and B Traverse 30m VS 4c
Start 7m right of Gardener's Crack underneath the overhanging soil bank. Traverse to the end of the crag at low level. Difficulty decreases to S after the orange pegs.
Further to the right, by the orange pegs:
21 Extra Delight 9m HS 4a
The left end of the "white" slab on small holds to a six inch footledge at two thirds height. Transfer to White Delight.
22 White Delight 9m VD
Climb the centre of the "white" slab, 5m right of the orange pegs, to the V at the top.
You have now reached the gate and can look through at the juicy plums waiting to be climbed......