OS ref. SK569143
wrongly called Kinchley Hill Quarry in the old guide. Nunckley Quarry is a small disused granite
quarry situated just north of the old railway line which branches off the
Great Central Railway at the south end of Swithland Reservoir and which once
led through the main Mountsorrel quarries over the river Soar on a fine
bridge and on to Barrow on Soar.
quarry is currently a bit overgrown but there is a splendid south‑facing
buttress of 20m or so. The foot of
this buttress is blocked by an overhanging wall which, although only 3m high
and 8m long looks very hard indeed.
It is unclimbed. The upper
section contains some pleasant looking grooves. The rock is very similarly to that of Craig Buddon.
and ACCESS (Location Plan)
road from Rothley Station to Quorn crosses the old railway at a bridge about
50m north of Halstead Road. Park on
the verge and take a small path to the west off the north‑west corner
of the bridge. There are now two
possibilities. Either descend the
steps to the old railway and walk (fight) through the undergrowth west for
about 100m before an opening in the cutting leads north into the quarry - or
boldly follow a small path to the right through the undergrowth until the
main buttress can be seen. Descend a
mud slope to the bottom of the quarry.
of the quarry is not at all certain; it may be old railway property or belong
to the modern quarry. However, locals
walk their dogs, and kids play in the scrub.
There are no neighbours and so climbing here should worry no‑one.
obvious feature is the overhanging wall blocking access to the main
buttress. The first route is left of
this on a subsidiary buttress, LEFT BUTTRESS. Routes are described from left to right.
Studio 12m VD
left of the buttress climb a vertical wall on small holds to an earth covered
ledge by an awkward mantleshelf.
Climb a block on the right, then move right for 3m and work upwards
and left over a block of doubtful stability to the top.
right is a gully and then a steep upper wall. Just right is CENTRAL BUTTRESS. The foot of Central Buttress is blocked by
a long steeply overhanging wall. The
next route skirts this on the right.
Wall 20m S 4a
Start at the
right‑hand side of the leaning wall.
Up, skirting the overhang and bearing a little left to the foot of an
obvious groove and ledge to the right of a number of small trees. Climb the groove to the top.
Slab 7m VD
right of the main face is as short slab topped by an overhanging block. Climb straight up the wall turning the
overhang on the right.
quarry looks promising for the development of intermediate grade routes on
the main buttress. There will also be desperate boulder problems on the
leaning wall. Spring visitors should
take a saw, reap hook and trowel.
Don't climb alone. If you fall
off it might be a long time before they find you.