Nunckley Quarry

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OS ref. SK569143 (Sheet 129) SITUATION and CHARACTER This was wrongly called Kinchley Hill Quarry in the old guide. Nunckley Quarry is a small disused granite quarry situated just north of the old railway line which branches off the Great Central Railway at the south end of Swithland Reservoir and which once led through the main Mountsorrel quarries over the river Soar on a fine bridge and on to Barrow on Soar. The quarry is currently a bit overgrown but there is a splendid south‑facing buttress of 20m or so. The foot of this buttress is blocked by an overhanging wall which, although only 3m high and 8m long looks very hard indeed. It is unclimbed. The upper section contains some pleasant looking grooves. The rock is very similarly to that of Craig Buddon. APPROACH and ACCESS (Location Plan) The back road from Rothley Station to Quorn crosses the old railway at a bridge about 50m north of Halstead Road. Park on the verge and take a small path to the west off the north‑west corner of the bridge. There are now two possibilities. Either descend the steps to the old railway and walk (fight) through the undergrowth west for about 100m before an opening in the cutting leads north into the quarry - or boldly follow a small path to the right through the undergrowth until the main buttress can be seen. Descend a mud slope to the bottom of the quarry. Ownership of the quarry is not at all certain; it may be old railway property or belong to the modern quarry. However, locals walk their dogs, and kids play in the scrub. There are no neighbours and so climbing here should worry no‑one. THE CLIMBS The most obvious feature is the overhanging wall blocking access to the main buttress. The first route is left of this on a subsidiary buttress, LEFT BUTTRESS. Routes are described from left to right. 1   Studio      12m VD On the left of the buttress climb a vertical wall on small holds to an earth covered ledge by an awkward mantleshelf. Climb a block on the right, then move right for 3m and work upwards and left over a block of doubtful stability to the top. Further right is a gully and then a steep upper wall. Just right is CENTRAL BUTTRESS. The foot of Central Buttress is blocked by a long steeply overhanging wall. The next route skirts this on the right. 2   Bogey Wall      20m S 4a Start at the right‑hand side of the leaning wall. Up, skirting the overhang and bearing a little left to the foot of an obvious groove and ledge to the right of a number of small trees. Climb the groove to the top. 3   End Slab      7m VD To the right of the main face is as short slab topped by an overhanging block. Climb straight up the wall turning the overhang on the right. NOTES This quarry looks promising for the development of intermediate grade routes on the main buttress. There will also be desperate boulder problems on the leaning wall. Spring visitors should take a saw, reap hook and trowel. Don't climb alone. If you fall off it might be a long time before they find you.