Outwoods Crag

 

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Anchor Church Caves

 

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Blackbrook Reservoir

 

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Markfield Quarry

 

Minor Outcrops and Boulders

 

Morley Quarry

 

Mountsorrel Crags

 

Nunckley Quarry

 

Oaks Pinnacle

 

Outwoods Crag

 

Pocketgate Quarry

 

Slawston Bridge

 

Whitwick Quarry

 

Whitwick Rocks

 

Climbing Walls

 

Index

 

 

 

 

 

OS ref. SK514167 (Sheet 129)

SITUATION and CHARACTER

 

The Outwoods Crag is a north‑facing woodland outcrop of natural rock (weathered Precambrian slate agglomerate) which is slow to dry.It has several lower grade routes which make it a good crag for beginners although some of the problems are not without interest.The crag is desperately greasy on a wet winter day but catches the sun through the trees very late on a summer evening.The main characteristic of the crag is the oak tree running up the Main Face.†† Oak tree belays are plentiful at the top.The crag was part of a bequest by Mr Alan Moss to Loughborough Corporation in 1946 - a far‑sighted action.

 

APPROACH and ACCESS (Location map)

 

The quickest approach is along the track through the wood which starts on the Nanpantan/Woodhouse Eaves road near Charnwood Hall.The crag is just beside the track where the path leaves the Outwoods.The Outwoods are owned by Charnwood Borough Council and are managed by the Outwoods Management Committee.There have been no difficulties with access until lately.The area has recently been made an SSSI and the Borough Council have to monitor the use of the Outwoods by groups. Before a visit groups should phone Charnwood Borough Council (0509‑263151 Ext 2102) and say they are going to climb at the Outwoods.Alternatively, visit Macaulay House, next to the Town Hall in Loughborough. The warden at the Outwoods has been known to be very outspoken to groups if he has not been informed of their visit.There are no restrictions on climbing by individuals - only monitoring of groups.The posted Bye‑Laws restrict assemblies and also climbing trees (so watch it on Monkey or it might cost you a £5 fine).

 

THE CLIMBS

 

The main feature of the crag is the tree.The routes are described from left to right.

Over on the LEFT WING are:

 

1   Pip      6m      D

Start at the bottom left‑hand corner of the slab.Go up round the overhang on its left and finish up the slab.

 

2   Roof      6m      VD

Directly over the centre of the overhang.

 

3   Squeak      8m      D

Start in the bay.Follow the little rib in the centre of the bay to broken rocks.Finish up the arÍte above.

 

The slab at the bottom of the next rib with boulders at the foot has several problems, both on the slab and on the wall to the left.

 

To the right is an inverted V slab.There are several 5m problems here.

 

a)†††††††† 3c††††††† The overhang at the top of the slab

b)††††††† 4a††††††† The upper of the three cracks on the right

c)†††††††† 4c††††††† The centre crack

d)††††††† 5a††††††† The wall between the centre crack and the easy right‑hand crack.

e)†††††††† 5a††††††† The wall to the right of the easy crack without using the crack or right arÍte

 

To the right an oak tree runs up the MAIN FACE.There is a buttress to the left of the tree.

 

4   Wilfred      6m      D

Up the slab and then the left edge of the buttress.

 

5   Mid      6m      S

1m to the right of the edge of the buttress.

 

6   Split      6m      D

The obvious crack in the buttress left of the tree.

 

7   Twee      6m      HS

The slab between the crack and the tree.Mind your head on the tree.

 

8   Oak      6m      VS *

An unusual route.Climb the chimney formed by the tree and the face left of the tree.Finish direct over the overhang of the tree.Some loose wood.

 

9   Monkey      6m      VD

The tree direct!Make the Dead Man's Leap from the top.

 

10   Puzzle      6m      D

Climb the crack just right of the tree.

 

11   Clown      9m      S

The face 2m right of the tree between the two cracks.

 

12   Bear      9m      D

Climb the right‑trending crack to the niche.Finish direct.

 

13   Squirrel      9m      D

Climb the thin crack direct to the niche.

 

14   Edge      9m      HS      4b

The right arÍte of the main crag direct.

 

15   Steps      9m      D

The staircase at the right of the main crag with the three green overhangs.