Outwoods Crag |
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Grace Dieu Viaduct and
Craglets Outwoods Crag |
OS ref. SK514167
(Sheet 129) SITUATION
and CHARACTER The
Outwoods Crag is a north‑facing woodland outcrop of natural rock (weathered
Precambrian slate agglomerate) which is slow to dry. It has several lower grade routes which
make it a good crag for beginners although some of the problems are not
without interest. The crag is
desperately greasy on a wet winter day but catches the sun through the trees
very late on a summer evening. The
main characteristic of the crag is the oak tree running up the Main
Face. Oak tree belays are plentiful
at the top. The crag was part of a
bequest by Mr Alan Moss to Loughborough Corporation in 1946 - a far‑sighted
action. APPROACH
and ACCESS (Location map) The
quickest approach is along the track through the wood which starts on the
Nanpantan/Woodhouse Eaves road near Charnwood Hall. The crag is just beside the track where the path leaves the
Outwoods. The Outwoods are owned by
Charnwood Borough Council and are managed by the Outwoods Management
Committee. There have been no difficulties
with access until lately. The area
has recently been made an SSSI and the Borough Council have to monitor the
use of the Outwoods by groups. Before a visit groups should phone Charnwood
Borough Council (0509‑263151 Ext 2102) and say they are going to climb
at the Outwoods. Alternatively, visit
Macaulay House, next to the Town Hall in Loughborough. The warden at the
Outwoods has been known to be very outspoken to groups if he has not been
informed of their visit. There are no
restrictions on climbing by individuals - only monitoring of groups. The posted Bye‑Laws restrict assemblies
and also climbing trees (so watch it on Monkey or it might cost you a £5
fine). THE
CLIMBS The main
feature of the crag is the tree. The
routes are described from left to right.
Over on
the LEFT WING are: 1
Pip 6m D Start at
the bottom left‑hand corner of the slab. Go up round the overhang on its left and finish up the slab. 2
Roof 6m VD Directly
over the centre of the overhang. 3
Squeak 8m D Start in
the bay. Follow the little rib in the
centre of the bay to broken rocks.
Finish up the arête above. The slab
at the bottom of the next rib with boulders at the foot has several problems,
both on the slab and on the wall to the left. To the
right is an inverted V slab. There
are several 5m problems here. a) 3c The
overhang at the top of the slab b) 4a The
upper of the three cracks on the right c) 4c The
centre crack d) 5a The
wall between the centre crack and the easy right‑hand crack. e) 5a The
wall to the right of the easy crack without using the crack or right arête To the
right an oak tree runs up the MAIN FACE. There is a buttress to the left of the tree. 4
Wilfred 6m D Up the
slab and then the left edge of the buttress. 5
Mid 6m S 1m to the
right of the edge of the buttress. 6
Split 6m D The
obvious crack in the buttress left of the tree. 7
Twee 6m HS The slab
between the crack and the tree. Mind
your head on the tree. 8
Oak 6m VS
* An
unusual route. Climb the chimney formed
by the tree and the face left of the tree.
Finish direct over the overhang of the tree. Some loose wood. 9
Monkey 6m VD The tree
direct! Make the Dead Man's Leap from
the top. 10
Puzzle 6m D Climb the
crack just right of the tree. 11
Clown 9m S The face
2m right of the tree between the two cracks. 12
Bear 9m D Climb the
right‑trending crack to the niche.
Finish direct. 13
Squirrel 9m D Climb the
thin crack direct to the niche. 14
Edge 9m HS 4b The right
arête of the main crag direct. 15
Steps 9m D The
staircase at the right of the main crag with the three green overhangs. |