Whitwick Rocks |
|
Grace Dieu Viaduct and
Craglets Whitwick Rocks |
OS ref. SK437164 (Sheet 129) SITUATION
and CHARACTER The Rocks
are situated in Whitwick village on Cademan Street. It is unfortunate that the crag is so awkwardly sited but the
quality of the granite does much to counteract this. This crag was wrongly named in the 1966
guide. It was also wrongly
called Peldar Tor in the 1973
edition (Peldar Tor is along the road
on the way to Leicester). The Rocks
are very old, being mentioned as belonging to the Parish of Swannington in
1835. It is likely, but uncertain, that the place was once called Pinfold
Quarry. It has also been referred to
as Whitwick Village Quarry. The crag
has become overgrown with trees and has assorted ex‑lorry junk at the
foot. Old photographs show the Rocks
as a prominent feature of the village.
It is a pity they are becoming overgrown. APPROACH
and ACCESS The Rocks
are an old quarry and Aucott's Garage is at the foot. The garage owners, two brothers, do not
wish the crag to be climbed on, but it is possible that it is not
theirs. The quarry was once owned by
the Parish, and current ownership is not clear (the Church?). Certainly in the past kids used to
scramble up it on the way to school.
Visits have been made early (6‑7 am) on sunny summer Sunday
mornings. THE
CLIMBS 1
Green
Slab 8m S 4a The crag
furthest from the road, rising from the undergrowth at the back of the
garages. Ascend a green slab to the
right of a small overhang to a square projecting block. From the top of the block go diagonally
right across the slab to the top by an obvious route. 2
Flypaper 5m S 4a A corner
with a slab on the left and an overhang on the right. Climb the slab direct. 3
Left
Arête 8m S 4c The left
rib of the large obvious square cut overhanging corner, a peg for aid. 4
Quaver 9m VS 4c The large
overhanging corner in two sections.
Ascend the first section direct with interest, then move left up the
smooth vertical wall, and easier ground to the top. Or after the first section move up right over the leaning wall
on good jugs. A pleasant enough climb. K.S. Vickers, S. Gregory and D.N. Draper,
Oct. 1963. 5
Right
Arête 6m VD Up the
right arête to the top. 6
Rag
Slab 9m D The
broken slab 8m left of a stone wall at right angles to the road. 7
Brewery
Wall 9m HS 4b The black
overhanging corner immediately above the stone wall. 8
Bus
Stop 9m VD The
obvious arête near the road, difficult in the upper half. 9 Final
Wall 9m VD The wall
immediately on the right. Climb delicately
up the centre of the wall finishing by an awkward mantleshelf. The
CRAG OPPOSITE is on the other side of the road and has an
excellent steep clean wall about 7m high beside a small warehouse. Ownership is unknown. |