Whitwick Rocks

 

Local Links

 

Leicestershire Climbs

 

Leicestershire

Intro & History

 

NEW ROUTES

 

Anchor Church Caves

 

Bardon Hill

 

Beacon Hill

 

Blackbrook Reservoir

 

Bradgate Park

 

The Brand

 

Cademan Woods & Broad Hill

 

Carver's Rocks

 

Cliffe Hill Quarry

 

Craig Buddon

 

Enderby Quarry

 

Finedon Slabs

 

Forest Rock

 

Grace Dieu Viaduct and Craglets

 

Granitethorpe Quarry

 

Groby Industrial Estate

 

Hangingstone Quarry

 

Hangingstone Rocks

 

High Sharpley

 

Huncote Quarry

 

Markfield Quarry

 

Minor Outcrops and Boulders

 

Morley Quarry

 

Mountsorrel Crags

 

Nunckley Quarry

 

Oaks Pinnacle

 

Outwoods Crag

 

Pocketgate Quarry

 

Slawston Bridge

 

Whitwick Quarry

 

Whitwick Rocks

 

Climbing Walls

 

Index

 

 

 

 

 

OS ref. SK437164(Sheet 129)

SITUATION and CHARACTER

The Rocks are situated in Whitwick village on Cademan Street.It is unfortunate that the crag is so awkwardly sited but the quality of the granite does much to counteract this.This crag was wrongly named in the 1966 guide.It was also wrongly calledPeldar Tor in the 1973 edition(Peldar Tor is along the road on the way to Leicester).The Rocks are very old, being mentioned as belonging to the Parish of Swannington in 1835. It is likely, but uncertain, that the place was once called Pinfold Quarry.It has also been referred to as Whitwick Village Quarry.

 

The crag has become overgrown with trees and has assorted ex‑lorry junk at the foot.Old photographs show the Rocks as a prominent feature of the village.It is a pity they are becoming overgrown.

 

APPROACH and ACCESS

The Rocks are an old quarry and Aucott's Garage is at the foot.The garage owners, two brothers, do not wish the crag to be climbed on, but it is possible that it is not theirs.The quarry was once owned by the Parish, and current ownership is not clear (the Church?).Certainly in the past kids used to scramble up it on the way to school.Visits have been made early (6‑7 am) on sunny summer Sunday mornings.

 

 

THE CLIMBS

 

1   Green Slab      8m      S      4a

The crag furthest from the road, rising from the undergrowth at the back of the garages.Ascend a green slab to the right of a small overhang to a square projecting block.From the top of the block go diagonally right across the slab to the top by an obvious route.

 

2   Flypaper      5m      S      4a

A corner with a slab on the left and an overhang on the right.Climb the slab direct.

 

3   Left ArÍte      8m      S      4c

The left rib of the large obvious square cut overhanging corner, a peg for aid.

 

4   Quaver      9m      VS      4c

The large overhanging corner in two sections.Ascend the first section direct with interest, then move left up the smooth vertical wall, and easier ground to the top.Or after the first section move up right over the leaning wall on good jugs.A pleasant enough climb.K.S. Vickers, S. Gregory and D.N. Draper, Oct. 1963.

 

5   Right ArÍte      6m      VD

Up the right arÍte to the top.

 

6   Rag Slab      9m      D

The broken slab 8m left of a stone wall at right angles to the road.

 

7   Brewery Wall      9m      HS      4b

The black overhanging corner immediately above the stone wall.

 

8   Bus Stop      9m      VD

The obvious arÍte near the road, difficult in the upper half.

 

9  Final Wall      9m      VD

The wall immediately on the right.†† Climb delicately up the centre of the wall finishing by an awkward mantleshelf.

 

The  CRAG OPPOSITE is on the other side of the road and has an excellent steep clean wall about 7m high beside a small warehouse.Ownership is unknown.