Minor Outcrops and Boulders

 

Local Links

 

Leicestershire Climbs

 

Leicestershire

Intro & History

 

NEW ROUTES

 

Anchor Church Caves

 

Bardon Hill

 

Beacon Hill

 

Blackbrook Reservoir

 

Bradgate Park

 

The Brand

 

Cademan Woods & Broad Hill

 

Carver's Rocks

 

Cliffe Hill Quarry

 

Craig Buddon

 

Enderby Quarry

 

Finedon Slabs

 

Forest Rock

 

Grace Dieu Viaduct and Craglets

 

Granitethorpe Quarry

 

Groby Industrial Estate

 

Hangingstone Quarry

 

Hangingstone Rocks

 

High Sharpley

 

Huncoate Quarry

 

Markfield Quarry

 

Minor Outcrops and Boulders

 

Morley Quarry

 

Mountsorrel Crags

 

Nunckley Quarry

 

Oaks Pinnacle

 

Outwoods Crag

 

Pocketgate Quarry

 

Slawston Bridge

 

Whitwick Quarry

 

Whitwick Rocks

 

Climbing Walls

 

Index

 

 

 

 

KINGS MILL OS ref. SK418275

In Quarry Wood.Isolated quarried sandstone outcrops of 6‑7m in woodland.Well vegetated and no known routes.

 

MELBOURNE QUARRY††† OS ref. SK383249

A sandstone quarry on the south side of the village, approached down a track by the allotments.The quarry has been part‑filled but about 10m of clean rock remain. Several good crack lines.A new house is being built (Sept 1992) at the end of the track but it is not clear whether the quarry will become the garden (like the sandstone quarry at the end of the bridge in Stanton by Bridge).This quarry was once full of beehives and the bees and climbing didn't mix.The bees have gone now and only empty hives remain.No known routes.

 

BREEDON HILL††††† OS ref. SK406233

A prominent local landmark.The hill has been quarried back to near the church.The limestone is no longer quarried but the site is used as a store and works and is probably covered by the Mines and Quarries Act and so access will be restricted.No known routes.

 

BREEDON CLOUD††††††††††† OS ref. SK413213

This is the working limestone quarry associated with Breedon Hill.Contains some slabs which have been climbed on.Because this is a working quarry access will be restricted.

 

RATCHET HILL†††††† Around OS ref. SK448164 (Minor Crags)

At the south side of open woodland are a series of small outcrops and boulders (try 449165, 448164 and 446163). A pleasant spot best approached from the path that now runs along the south side of the wood.The quarry is now much bigger than shown on the current OS map.

 

HIGH TOR†††† Around OS ref. SK454158 (Minor Crags)

In a wood overlooking Mount St. Bernard's Abbey.At the south end of the wood near the quarry is a fine pinnacled arÍte.The face of this is split by three cracks providing short, but good, problems.Round to the left is a steep face with a thin crack and swing away to the right (VS) (try 454158).Many more short, steep walls and boulders (try 453157 and 454157).High Tor is a must for jungle bashers.Best approached from the path along the south side of the wood but choose your spot.

 

WARREN HILLS†††† Around OS ref. 460150 (Minor Crags)

Once called High Towers, the Warren Hills one of the few open moorland areas left in Charnwood Forest.The rocky escarpments facing SW look impressive but do not amount to much.At 461148 is an old quarry which gives a long scramble but is overgrown.At 463153 is a large rock with a slab on the N side.The fragments of different rock (or "bombs" as they are sometimes called) embedded in the bulk rock make excellent holds.This rock is well off the public footpath so trespassing here can incur the wrath of the naturalists (see Oaks Pinnacle).

 

IVES HEADOS ref. SK478170

Short problems in a very pleasant situation.

 

BILLA BARRA†††††††† OS ref. SK466114

A small old slate quarry near the top of Billa Barra hill has a small face which gives bouldering.There is a pool nearby, at the top of the crag!A beautiful spot with views marred by the new Stanton quarry below.Owned by Tarmac, as is much land hereabouts.Best approached from the east up a fence line in the field beside the house.

 

GROBY A50 QUARRY†††††† OS ref. SK 519078

There is a small miserable noisy quarry with poor rock just beside the A50.

 

BENSCLIFFE WOOD†††††††† OS ref. SK513126

Situated on top of the hill in the wood on the left‑hand side of the road leading from Old John to Shepshed.There are a number of short flake and slab climbs.The location (and sometimes, picture) is in all the geology books because it is the "type locality" for the Benscliffe Agglomerate, a variety of Precambrian rock.

 

BUCK HILLS†††††††††† OS ref. SK511158

On the left of the road from Woodhouse Eaves to Nanpantan a concession footpath goes beside Charnwood Hall, a County boarding school.The path leads to a N‑S ridge.Along the ridge to the S are a couple of small crags and a pool (511158).The concession path leads N (the other branch goes to the top of the Beacon) and runs along a delightful ridge above a valley.There is a pinnacle of 8m (only Mod) just below the path (507164) on land belonging to the Nanpantan Hall Estate.If continued E the concession path comes out on to the road again.

 

SPRING HILL CRAG (ROECLIFFE)†††††† OS ref. SK527127

Spring Hill Crag is in a wood 100m east of the footpath which runs north from the B5330 across the golf course.The rock face west and give three or more good problems (4b‑5a) on short undercut buttresses in a fine spot.

 

WINDMILL HILL††††† OS ref. SK526127

On public land adjoining the open space of Broombrigg's Farm just north of the old windmill.Mostly easy boulder problems but one very hard (6a) arÍte.The best boulder arÍte in Leicestershire? G. Lucas, 1987.

 

NANPANTAN HILL OS ref. SK501170

In a wood on the south side of the road, plainly visible.

 

TWYFORD VIADUCT†††††††† OS ref. SK742093

About 10 miles NE of Leicester.There are very good traverses and bouldering as well as aid routes on the arches.

 

TRENT BRIDGE††††† OS ref. SK583384

In Nottingham on the south‑east side of the river by Nottingham Forest football club there are many problems (from 5a upwards) on the bridge stonework.6c traverses in the outermost tunnel.

 

UNIVERSITY WALL†††††††††† OS ref. SK 541380

A stonework wall in the grounds of Nottingham University gives pleasant traversing at about 5b/c on two tiers (3m and 2m) beside the lake.There is a natural crag nearby and an indoor wall at the University Sports Centre.

 

FOREST WALL†††††† OS ref. 568413

In Nottingham.This built sandstone wall is approx. 10m high and 100m long.Goes anywhere at 5a.Gives a very long tedious traverse.