High Sharpley Introduction

 

Local Links

 

Leicestershire Climbs

 

Leicestershire

Intro & History

 

NEW ROUTES

 

Anchor Church Caves

 

Bardon Hill

 

Beacon Hill

 

Blackbrook Reservoir

 

Bradgate Park

 

The Brand

 

Cademan Woods & Broad Hill

 

Carver's Rocks

 

Cliffe Hill Quarry

 

Craig Buddon

 

Enderby Quarry

 

Finedon Slabs

 

Forest Rock

 

Grace Dieu Viaduct and Craglets

 

Granitethorpe Quarry

 

Groby Industrial Estate

 

Hangingstone Quarry

 

Hangingstone Rocks

 

High Sharpley

 

Huncote Quarry

 

Markfield Quarry

 

Minor Outcrops and Boulders

 

Morley Quarry

 

Mountsorrel Crags

 

Nunckley Quarry

 

Oaks Pinnacle

 

Outwoods Crag

 

Pocketgate Quarry

 

Slawston Bridge

 

Whitwick Quarry

 

Whitwick Rocks

 

Climbing walls

 

Index

 

 

 

 

 

The Routes

 

OS ref. SK449170 (Sheetl29)

SITUATION and CHARACTER

High Sharpley is the most surreal landscape in Leicestershire. Its name is apt - a towering sharp ridge of miniature pinnacles surrounded by a field of biscuit-like boulders. The jagged summit commands superb views, High Sharpley is just the place to be alone when everyone else is at work (or school). When you are in this lunar landscape of rock it is difficult to believe you are in mid-England.

 

The highest rock face is only six metres and only rarely do any of the routes exceed two or three moves. This is no outdoor gymnasium; not a place to get pumped out. The manoeuvres you make are like the place itself - unique. You climb here for the desperate mantleshelves, the frightening pinch grips and the back-breaking landings. Nothing is obvious; sometimes you start a problem from a sitting position. Sometimes you jump. High Sharpley is, like Cademan Wood, a place to play, explore and invent.

 

But the terrible truth is that the area may be quarried. So if you want to experience the place it will have to be sooner rather than later.

 

The craglets are on and around the rocky ridge which runs from High Sharpley to Gun Hill where there is an old ruin. The rock is a natural very coarse granite (actually Precambrian porphyroid) and the outcrops lie on the extension of the ridge through Cademan Wood just across the road.

 

APPROACH and ACCESS

The barbed wire, notices, and keepering make this the Colditz of Charnwood. The Ramblers' Association has petitioned for the right to roam. The area is owned by DeLisle and the recent restrictions on access are in contrast to other parts of the estate (Grace Dieu and Cademan Wood). Some link the recent restrictions with a plan to quarry the area.

The obvious access from Cademan Wood is heavily wired. The track from the Thringstone-Mount St. Bernard's Abbey road is also wired off.