High Sharpley


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Intro & History




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Hangingstone Rocks


High Sharpley


Huncote Quarry


Markfield Quarry


Minor Outcrops and Boulders


Morley Quarry


Mountsorrel Crags


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Oaks Pinnacle


Outwoods Crag


Pocketgate Quarry


Slawston Bridge


Whitwick Quarry


Whitwick Rocks


Climbing walls







Introduction & Location


Flake crag, Hilltop crag and reservoir crag grid references should all have Northings of 171 – not 161 as given in the guide.


FLAKE CRAG (446161 )

This is the crag nearest Swannymote Road. It is 6m high and the climbs face north. There is a wonderful odd pinnacle with a perfect fist  jamming crack up the side. From left to right:


1 VD The face to the left of the chimney crack with blocks in it is climbed direct.


2 S Climb on the right of the chimney crack to finish by a thin finger crack on to the right aręte.


3 4b A sinuous crack to the right of the aręte. Strenuous. Use of the corner makes it VD. The landing below is nasty:


4 D The crack in the corner.


5 VD The right-hand edge of the outcrop direct by a high pull up.


HILL TOP CRAG (448161 )

On the top facing south towards the abbey. It's 6m high.

This is the highest and most important outcrop and has an overhanging wall on which there is some strenuous and technical climbing. Be strict with yourself to get the best from the routes marked on the photo. The best landings at Sharpley.




On the north east of the summit facing the reservoir.


1 M Broken face left of the central crack.


2 4c The central crack with an overhang at its foot.


3 4c The two parallel cracks just left of the aręte through the overhang. Bold.


4 4c Traverse on the right-hand aręte (undercut base) and mantleshelf up.



Below the main summit is a distinctive short overhanging black wall.


1 5c Traverse from left to right using a sequence of bizarre wrinkles. Technical finger-tip lunges with nothing for the feet.

Greg Lucas, 1985.


2 5b Straight up.



On the north side of the hill well below the summit crags is a black overhang tucked into the hillside. About 5m high. There are no holds on the smooth wall above the overhang, only a rounded blind crack running up and over the roof. Not done yet. The right aręte provides an exposed 4b mantleshelf.

Centre Crack   5b
With the aid of the obvious finger-crack climb the centre of the wall using neither the left or right arętes.  Delicate. 
Mark Goodwin 16 May 1993

Bluntley Aręte   5c
Using the diagonal break beneath the black overhang and the rounded aręte, mantelshelf and layaway until it is possible to reach the obvious, small, blunt pinnacle. 
Mark Goodwin 16 May 1993

Both problems have poor landings



This superb little buttress is south of High Sharpley and near to the road junction. It has recently been partly filled with white-coloured rock and only boulder problems remain. The front face is overhanging and is split at half height by an enormous horizontal break.


1 5b A desperate mantleshelf up to a pinch grip can be had taking you straight up the middle of the face.


2 5a Traverse left to right.



Low down on the other side of the hill from the ruined house is a slab-buttress. It gives a long wandering route of 4a standard.



Half a mile from High Sharpley in the direction of the abbey and near the road. About 5m high. North west facing. This superb shaped outcrop is behind a large tree with a "PRIVATE" sign on it.


1 M The slab on the left side direct.


2 S The crack to the right of the slab by an interesting move to gain a high right foot hold using the crack and right aręte only.


3 VD Crack just left of tree.


4 D The face right of the tree by the left edge.


5 D Girdle traverse at half height.