Bradgate Park Routes


Local Links


Leicestershire Climbs



Intro & History




Anchor Church Caves


Bardon Hill


Beacon Hill


Blackbrook Reservoir


Bradgate Park


The Brand


Cademan Woods & Broad Hill


Carver's Rocks


Cliffe Hill Quarry


Craig Buddon


Enderby Quarry


Finedon Slabs


Forest Rock


Grace Dieu Viaduct and Craglets


Granitethorpe Quarry


Groby Industrial Estate


Hangingstone Quarry


Hangingstone Rocks


High Sharpley


Huncote Quarry


Markfield Quarry


Minor Outcrops and Boulders


Morley Quarry


Mountsorrel Crags


Nunckley Quarry


Oaks Pinnacle


Outwoods Crag


Pocketgate Quarry


Slawston Bridge


Whitwick Quarry


Whitwick Rocks


Climbing Walls








Introduction & Location



From the main entrance at Newtown Linford follow the surfaced track for 300m alongside the river Lin through Little Matlock Gorge. Situated high on the left above the track is a small crag behind the trees and to the left of some prominent, more broken, rocks. This is the WISHING-STONE CRAG (526100). It is Markfieldite granite and about 6m high. Much better than you might think.


1 Thumbscrew 4b

The thin crack from the left.

B.M. and P.H. Biven, 1949.


2 The Stretcher 5c

Climb the wall direct.


3 The Rack 5a

Climb the wall just left of the aręte.


4 Cenotaph Corner 4a

Compellingly obvious!


5 Cemetery Gates 4b

Climb the right arete, using the crack to start.


Below and to the right is a good boulder with an aręte and overhanging wall.



Continue along the surfaced track for 800m until beside the ruins of Bradgate House. (Built for the Grey's of Groby in 1440 and home of Lady Jane Grey, the famous nine day Oueen of England in 1553, burnt 1690.)

Turn right off the track and cross the river by a stone bridge.

Behind the small rocky hillock in front of you, and in visible as you approach, is a small quarry.


This is STABLE PIT named after the stable block which was demolished in the 1850's, OS ref SK 534100 (its on the join of sheets 129 and 140). The rock is slate quartzite. The pit faces south and is relatively secluded.

From the left-hand end of the wall:


6 Thin Ragged Crack Slanting Left 4c

Harder than it looks.


7 Yours Is No Disgrace 5c

Climb the overhanging wall just left of the highest point of the crag (its only 4m), finishing over it.


8 Tootal 5a

Just left of a round scoop at waist level to the gap right of the highpoint.


9 Green For Go 5b

From two sloping fingerholds, climb straight up to the finishing holds of Tootal.


10 Deceptive Crack           4b

Harder than it looks.


11 Biceps 4c

Climb the wall right of the crack.


Rising Traverse. 5c? *
Probably been done before but worth a mention for those who like Bradgate Bouldering.
Start on the low jugs for the start of Biceps, move left towards the obvious thin rising crack line at head hieght. Follow this on small crimps and delicate footwork until its end and finish up Thin Ragged Crack Slanting Left.
Matt Barker, 2001


12 Easy Corner 2b or not 2b?


13 The Aręte 4b

Climb the undercut aręte.


14 The Bulge 5a

Start at the V slot.


15 Crack and Aręte 4b

Start at the diamond slot.


16 Thin Crack 4a

Layaway start.


17 Suffolk 3c

The iron-stained wall.


18 Maserati GT 6a

Start at the mini groove and climb direct. A finger ripper.


19 Six Digit Wall 6b           

To the right at a notch in the overlap.


20 Finger Wall 5c

One foot right, direct to the slot.


21 Fern Aręte 5a

Start from the left.


22 Step Two 5b

Climb direct from the second step of trie staircase.

I Can See Angel’s   6b+
Start with both hands on ledge right of ‘Iron Wall’ (far right).  Left foot in crack, right foot smeary feature to right, pull either ledges (i.e. on crack for feet) for crimp on ‘Iron Wall’.   Finish on sloper around the top.  Richard Fowler

23 Girdle Traverse 5b

Start at the extreme right and move left across the impending wall onto the step of the staircase (or go up Fern Arete). Continue round and along the wall to a rest in Easy Corner Work along the diagonal crack using a foot in the scoop of Tootal and finish up Yours Is No Disgrace.


There are a couple of easier problems round on the more-public north side facing the ruins.


Other crags in the vicinity are:



This spectacular outcrop with a tree growing out of it can be seen from the top of Old John. Unfortunately it is just a heap of boulders with only a little problem aręte.



This small crag is situated on the edge of the wooded hillside just below the water treatment plant. It faces west and is 200m east of the footpath between Swithland Wood and Bradgate Park. There are four or more good problems on the left and right walls of a V groove, plus flaky arętes to the right. Looks a good prospect.



Across the Cropston road, outside the Park, and in the middle of Swithland Wood is an old deep slate quarry with a palisade around it. The bottom is flooded and is used for sub-aqua diving (its 40m deep). The crags offer some routes above the old quarrymen's steps but none has been recorded yet. The Wood is managed as part of Bradgate Park and the warden has been known to ask you to leave. That goes for swimming too.