Bradgate Park Routes
From the main entrance at Newtown Linford follow the surfaced track for 300m alongside the river Lin through Little Matlock Gorge. Situated high on the left above the track is a small crag behind the trees and to the left of some prominent, more broken, rocks. This is the WISHING-STONE CRAG (526100). It is Markfieldite granite and about 6m high. Much better than you might think.
1 Thumbscrew 4b
The thin crack from the left.
B.M. and P.H. Biven, 1949.
2 The Stretcher 5c
Climb the wall direct.
3 The Rack 5a
Climb the wall just left of the aręte.
4 Cenotaph Corner 4a
5 Cemetery Gates 4b
Climb the right arete, using the crack to start.
Below and to the right is a good boulder with an aręte and overhanging wall.
Continue along the surfaced track for 800m until beside the ruins of Bradgate House. (Built for the Grey's of Groby in 1440 and home of Lady Jane Grey, the famous nine day Oueen of England in 1553, burnt 1690.)
Turn right off the track and cross the river by a stone bridge.
Behind the small rocky hillock in front of you, and in visible as you approach, is a small quarry.
This is STABLE PIT named after the stable block which was demolished in the 1850's, OS ref SK 534100 (its on the join of sheets 129 and 140). The rock is slate quartzite. The pit faces south and is relatively secluded.
From the left-hand end of the wall:
6 Thin Ragged Crack Slanting Left 4c
Harder than it looks.
7 Yours Is No Disgrace 5c
Climb the overhanging wall just left of the highest point of the crag (its only 4m), finishing over it.
8 Tootal 5a
Just left of a round scoop at waist level to the gap right of the highpoint.
9 Green For Go 5b
From two sloping fingerholds, climb straight up to the finishing holds of Tootal.
10 Deceptive Crack 4b
Harder than it looks.
11 Biceps 4c
Climb the wall right of the crack.
Rising Traverse. 5c? *
12 Easy Corner 2b or not 2b?
13 The Aręte 4b
Climb the undercut aręte.
14 The Bulge 5a
Start at the V slot.
15 Crack and Aręte 4b
Start at the diamond slot.
16 Thin Crack 4a
17 Suffolk 3c
The iron-stained wall.
18 Maserati GT 6a
Start at the mini groove and climb direct. A finger ripper.
19 Six Digit Wall 6b
To the right at a notch in the overlap.
20 Finger Wall 5c
One foot right, direct to the slot.
21 Fern Aręte 5a
Start from the left.
22 Step Two 5b
Climb direct from the second step of trie staircase.
See Angel’s 6b+
23 Girdle Traverse 5b
Start at the extreme right and move left across the impending wall onto the step of the staircase (or go up Fern Arete). Continue round and along the wall to a rest in Easy Corner Work along the diagonal crack using a foot in the scoop of Tootal and finish up Yours Is No Disgrace.
There are a couple of easier problems round on the more-public north side facing the ruins.
Other crags in the vicinity are:
SLIDING STONE CRAG OS ref. 5K531113
This spectacular outcrop with a tree growing out of it can be seen from the top of Old John. Unfortunately it is just a heap of boulders with only a little problem aręte.
WARREN VIEW CRAG OS ref. 5K535118
This small crag is situated on the edge of the wooded hillside just below the water treatment plant. It faces west and is 200m east of the footpath between Swithland Wood and Bradgate Park. There are four or more good problems on the left and right walls of a V groove, plus flaky arętes to the right. Looks a good prospect.
SWITHLAND WOOD OUARRY OS ref. 5K539122
Across the Cropston road, outside the Park, and in the middle of Swithland Wood is an old deep slate quarry with a palisade around it. The bottom is flooded and is used for sub-aqua diving (its 40m deep). The crags offer some routes above the old quarrymen's steps but none has been recorded yet. The Wood is managed as part of Bradgate Park and the warden has been known to ask you to leave. That goes for swimming too.