Craig Buddon Routes |
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Craig Buddon Grace Dieu Viaduct and
Craglets |
The crag is very compact, the most obvious feature being the black overhanging corner of Starco. On the left side of the crag there is a 5m slab which, although a little loose, gives some good traversing. Don't
belay to the small trees at the top below the wall. Their roots do not
penetrate the rock and they come out surprisingly easily. Use the big ones
over the wall at the top and a few long slings. The
extreme left-hand corner gives the first route (which is also a useful
descent route). 1
Dandy 10m D Up a
grassy ramp to the foot of the groove. Follow the groove on the left to a
grass ledge and finish on the left side of the wall above. Not much use
except as a way down. 2 Cull
10m VD Three
feet to the right of Dandy. Climb up the shallow groove to the tree on good
holds and finish up the wall above. 3
Straight and Narrow 20m HVS 5a * (Diagram) Start
below the left-hand arête. Up the steep wall to the bottom of the arête.
Follow the arête via an unusual mantelshelf and a small roof to a ledge.
Continue up the right edge of the short, awkward wall above. Ken
Vickers and Dave Draper, 1961. Two small
enjoyable variations on Straight and Narrow exist. Blade ** (HVS 5a)
moves right for 3m at the foot of the arête and climbs up the middle of the
slab stepping out right round the arête from a ledge. Go Slow (VS 4b) (Diagram) is the obvious line and continues Blade's
traverse right to a groove, up which the route finishes. 4
Starco 14m HVS 5a
(Diagram) This
strenuous climb takes the obvious black overhanging corner via some big reaches
to a ledge across the lip. Continue up the arête above. Unusually for Buddon,
it is protectable. Harder if you're short. Martyn
Riley and Roger Withers, Nov. 1960. 5
Gamekeepers Refusal 14m E1 5b (Diagram) A small
amount of independent climbing. Start as for Starco but move up right across
the overhanging wall past a peg runner. The peg further right is off Iine.
Various claims for the first free ascent. S.
Gutteridge and P. Wells, 1978; J. Moulding, R. Conley and F. Stevenson,
1977/8. 6 Soft
and Hard 17m VS 4b (Diagram) A good
route. Climb easily up the pleasant slab 3m left of Virago to the break
(Friends). Traverse right and make hard moves up the slab to the right of the
overhang. 7
Virago 17m E1 5a *** (Diagram) The best route on the crag. Start at the foot of the right-hand side of the buttress. Up a clean cut groove, exiting right. Manoeuvre past the first bulge from the right and easily up to the overhang (Friends). Mantelshelf over the overhang (interesting) and wander to the top. Ken Vickers and Dave Draper, May 1960. 8
Trepidatlon 17m HVS 5b * To the
right of Virago is a steep wall with a crack, the only one on the crag. Climb
up to, and layback, the crack until big leaning holds on the right can be
reached. A mantelshelf on the left thumb leads to the finishing holds. No
bridging across the groove. Ken
Vickers and Stephen George, 1964. 9
Dusty Desire 10m HS 4b (Diagram) Climb the
deceptively easy-looking corner to the right of Trepidation. The right arête
provides some relief. Once called Dusty Diedre. 10
Future Times 10m HVS 5a * The right
arête of Dusty Desire is started direct and climbed by laying away to the
right. Unprotected. Steve
Gutteridge, 1979ish. 11
Halcyon 12m D Follow
the shallow groove in the slab immediately to the right of Future Times. 12
Harpy 10m D The crack
to the right of the slab with blocks that need care. Requires cleaning with something similar to Harpic. 13
Girdle Traverse 30m HVS 5a * Start on
the right-hand side. Up Harpy for 6m and move left along the obvious line
across Future Times to the break on Virago. Move down and left beneath
Gamekeepers Refusal to the groove of Starco. Up this and traverse across the
slab to finish up Straight and Narrow. To the
right of Harpy there is a blocky cliff with a jungle beneath and a wall of
earth on top. This is best left alone although routes have been made there. 14 Woden
17m VD Start to
the right of the main face in the centre of the wall at a rib. Up the rib
move right into a groove moving left at the top through doubtful rocks with
one concealed tree root for aid. Some
scope for boulder problems exists in Buddon Wood on the ridge 400m to the
north-north east behind the crag. These are on some of the best rock in
Leicestershire (if you can find it). |