Leicestershire's crags really do exist
but are little known. Many
do not amount to much when compared to the Peak District, but several are
close to the MI, and make an ideal stopping-off spot for climbers travelling
by. Markfield Quarry, with over 70 routes, is only two minutes from Junction
22. Many of the small crags (and there are many of them) are in beautiful
locations and comprised of the very best rough granite. Locals, and that
includes Birmingham, Coventry, Northampton, Peterborough, Nottingham, Derby,
as well as Leicester, can have a good evening out on quiet sunny crags.
The climbs listed are based on the 1993 Leicestershire Climbs guide by Geoff Mason and Ken Vickers and published by Cordee.
The route descriptions are as given in the guidebook and may have changed somewhat since the publication of the guide. (A sapling is now likely to be a mature tree or non existent, A peg may have rusted away or have been replaced by a bolt etc)
Additional information and new
routes in the main body of the guide are shown in red.
Unless otherwise stated all photographs from the original guide are by Greg Lucas.
Etherington on Virago E1 5a, Craig Buddon. Photo by Craig Charles.
Right: The water level traverse of Baptism VS 5b (4c variant), Markfield Quarry. Photo by John Lockett.
Thanks to Ken & Geoff for allowing
me to use their guide, to Juliet, Ella & Anne for typing up the new
routes information, those who
contributed updated information including
members of the Bowline, and to all those named in the original acknowledgements.
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