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Whitwick Quarry


Whitwick Rocks


Climbing Walls







The following routes have all been climbed since the publication of the 1993 Leicestershire Climbs guide and have been added to the crag lists.

26/5/93 Beacon Hill.

Three metres left of Number Four Crag there is a small square cut corner.

Sprint Start  5c

From the starting blocks climb the corner without using the arêtes either side.

Stephen Bennet

Markfield Quarry, to the right of Chequered Slab.

14/5/95 Groove D'Arête  VS 4b

Belay at the waterline in a niche 3m right of the start of Chequered Slab (good belay). Climb the wide groove on the left (flakes) until it is possible to move athletically right onto the arête. Follow the arête to the top. Pleasant though slightly artificial.

Colin Knowles, Ian Carey.

11/7/00  Cliffe Hill Quarry

Solemn  E5  6a  picture

The route can be done in either one or two pitches.

  1. 5b  Start at the obvious thin crack. Climb this and gain the jug. Either climb the groove or swing left onto the front and layback up until jugs and the spike belay can be reached.
  2. 5c  Stand on top of the spike. A sequence of moves leads rightwards until a triangular hold can be gained. From this reach high for a layaway and move up to the base of the crack. Once established in the crack wild laybacking leads to good jams. Continue up the crack to an obvious rest. Move up and step left into the final layback sequence… and the top.

Robin Richmond, Paul Bradshaw

18/2/01 Cliffe Hill Quarry

The Beast  E4  6a  picture

Either abseil in from the top of the crag or scramble up the boulders to the prominent groove on the left hand side of the crag. Clamber up onto the top of a large block at the base of the crack. Here awkward moves lead off up the crack. Follow the crack to a 'bomber' hand jam. The next few feet comprise of hard moves up the increasingly thinner crack until the obvious horizontal break can be reached. The final section is technical but the 'beast' rears it's head and starts to overhang even more! Arms now starting to burn, move on up the sharp crack and head rightwards onto the even steeper headwall. Move on up and a final long reach brings the top.

A superb, sustained and technical exercise, well worth a go.

Robin Richmond, Scott Chidlow.

Markfield Quarry
Double Diamond  VS  4c
Start 3m right of Cracked Wall Direct below a big X made by overcrossing cracks. Climb a short wall then straight up the middle of two diamond shaped blocks on top of each other. Try to avoid stepping onto the roof of Titch and Kwacker.
Greg Richards, John Devenport  March 1997

Soar Crag
Problem 5: Soar thing   5c
The arête.  Mark Goodwin 2 May 1993

Overhanging Wall
Centre Crack   5b
With the aid of the obvious finger-crack climb the centre of the wall using neither the left or right arêtes.  Delicate. 
Mark Goodwin 16 May 1993

Bluntley Arête   5c
Using the diagonal break beneath the black overhang and the rounded arête, mantelshelf and layaway until it is possible to reach the obvious, small, blunt pinnacle.  Mark Goodwin 16 May 1993

Both problems have poor landings

Note:  Flake crag, Hilltop crag and reservoir crag grid references should all have Northings of 171 – not 161 as given in the guide.

Cookie Monster   E1 6a

Between ‘Moon Shot’ and ‘Moon Shot Direct’.  Pull straight over the over-hang between the two later mentioned pinch a small ledge, bring both feet up on the slanted slab for a smear, walk hands up the small ridge laying body back to keep friction on the slab, reach with one arm or a small well set dyno will bring you to the triangle-hole used on ‘Moon Shot Direct’.   Finish up on ‘Moon Shot Direct’ or dyno for the small ledge to the right problem.

Stable Pit
I Can See Angel’s  
Start with both hands on ledge right of ‘Iron Wall’ (far right).  Left foot in crack, right foot smeary feature to right, pull either ledges (i.e. on crack for feet) for crimp on ‘Iron Wall’.   Finish on sloper around the top.
Richard Fowler

Groove D’Arête   VS 4b
Belay at the waterline in a niche 3m right of the start of ‘Chequered Slab’.  Climb the wide groove on the left (flakes) until it is possible to move athletically right onto the arête.  Follow the arête to the top. Pleasant, though slightly artificial.  Colin Knowles and Ian Carey 14 May 95

Branching Out   VD
Start as for ‘Groove D’Arête’.  Climb the shot-hole groove, cross the arête above (keeping the rose on your left!).  Good belay, good runners and two interesting moves make this currently dirty route worthwhile. C Knowles & C Smart 21 May 1996

Double Diamond   VS 4cStart 3m right of ‘Cracked Wall’ directly below a big ‘X’ by over crossing cracks.  Climb short wall then straight up the middle of the diamond shaped blocks on top of each other.  Try to avoid stepping onto roof of ‘Titch And Kwacker’.  Greg Richards & John Devonport   March 1997

Hard Rain Coming   HVS 5a+, F6a.
Upper Betty’s Slab, between ‘Celeste’ and ‘Quariantics’.  Start directly onto the major slab, missing the major crack lines trending left and right.  Take a direct line aiming for the overhang between two gorse bushes on fine holds.  Friend for safety at the overhang (good crack) directly over overhang between gorses and back onto more rounded and fine holds to the top.  Large nut in the last few feet.  Slightly to the right of the line: exit just to the right of the hawthorn and belay off the trunks.  Reaching left or right onto the good crack lines at the start is not on.  Steve Ward  & Ray Lindsay   9 May 1998

This climb has probably been done before but it does not seem to appear on the guide.  It’s a good route and I think it should be mentioned, regardless of the first ascentionist.  We did it on 9th May 1998 just before a cloudburst, and although protection is scant it is good.

Titch & Hoot (variation finish)  VS 4cStart as for ‘Titch and Kwacker’.  Finish rightwards via the diagonal break.  Pull over into the niche.  Mark Goodwin & Chris Mitchell   4 Sep 1998

Steep Walk   HVS 5b
Start as for ‘Weak Walk’.  Go straight up into the niche via the steep crack.  Strenuous and worthwhile.   Mark Goodwin/Chris Mitchell  4 Sep 98

Sam’s Arête 9m   E1 5b  ** The overhang right of ‘Elderberry Corner’.  Start on the small slab under the sloping roof, use a poor undercut in the roof to gain a couple of shit holds, one on the arête and a left sloping hold just left of the arête.  Work your feet up the stretch, lunge or dyno or the jug on ‘Sugar Daddy’.  (Harder for the short).  Then mantle carefully to gain another good hold straight up, do not use the crack or slab and continue easily to the top.  A committing solo.  Dave Hughes  18 Sep 1998 (solo)

Twice My Height  4m   5b
Right arête of the ‘Cioch Wall’, either side goes at 5b solo or extended boulder problem.  Dave Hughes 20 Sep 1998


The Green Party   VS 4c
An eliminate line between ‘Slip And Slide’ and ‘Central Crack’.  Climb the base wall and then up the apparently blank slab above using small edges.  Surmount the head wall at the same point as central crack.  Andy Pemberton & Noel Curtis 13 May 96

Probably done before in the ‘50’s according to Ken Vickers, so not really a new route!

Yes, when the slab was clean you could climb all over it at 4c/5a.

Yes, done in the ‘50’s.  Alan Griffiths

Hangingstone Quarry
A serious rock fall in region of Helloverhang.


The Wet Toothbrush   5b (boulder problem)
Traverses below the roof between ‘Modular’ and ‘Mango’.  Start on a side pull, pull under the roof and traverse right on wonderful holds.  Andy Pemberton July 1996

 Bradgate Park, Stable Pit
Rising Traverse. 5c? *
Probably been done before but worth a mention for those who like Bradgate Bouldering.
Start on the low jugs for the start of Biceps, move left towards the obvious thin rising crack line at head hieght. Follow this on small crimps and delicate footwork until its end and finish up Thin Ragged Crack Slanting Left.
Matt Barker, 2001

Granitethorpe Access
I am one of the local youths from sapcote and a regular visitor to the granite. Some or your directions are becoming slightly inacurate due to overgroth or better routes found. The amendments i would suggest are that there is deffinatly no car access past the garages. This would have to be made on foot. Also when approaching the gate on the west side of the granite the entrance is imidiatly on your right after the gate. There is also another acess point to the small grassy area on the south east side of the granite. if you continue down the bridle way you will reach an open area which u currently name as a possible parking area.There is an overgrown area on your left about 30 metres infront of u. There is an opening through it which leads to a small fence. Climb over this and follow a walked path virtually straight ahead to u reach the edge of the cliff. follow the hill down to your right its quite steep but a fairly easy climb down if u use the log on the right as u walk down. this will bring u out onto the grassy area which is a great area to swim. There is from here an easy swim to the rock face that sticks out into the middle of the quarry. there is a climb up here and we regulary use the rocks for diving off. have fun be safe.goldie

Cliffe Hill, Leicestershire news
If you want to do any of the routes in Cliffe Hill, I suggest you get
in and do them as quickly as possible. The owners are currently draining the pool at the bottom and are going to start working the face furthest from the road when the pool is empty. This will eventually break through
into another pit.
There is a manned security hut at the entrance by the roundabout. The best way in is therefore to park in the nearby motorway services and walk in. Access is available from a number of points from the adjacent road. If you see a red Toyota 4x4 coming, it's security. They will throw
you out and try to take a photo of you with a disposable camera. Prints are apparently circulated to the owners, the security company and the police although I struggle to see what interest they would have in them. Aug 2002