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The following routes have all been climbed since the
publication of the 1993 Leicestershire Climbs guide and have been added to
the crag lists.
26/5/93 Beacon Hill.
Three metres left of Number Four
Crag there is a small square cut corner.
Sprint Start 5c
From the starting blocks climb the
corner without using the arêtes either side.
Stephen Bennet
Markfield Quarry, to the right of
Chequered Slab.
14/5/95
Groove D'Arête VS 4b
Belay at the waterline in a niche
3m right of the start of Chequered Slab (good belay). Climb the wide groove
on the left (flakes) until it is possible to move athletically right onto the
arête. Follow the arête to the top. Pleasant though slightly artificial.
Colin Knowles, Ian Carey.
11/7/00 Cliffe Hill Quarry
Solemn E5
6a picture
The route can be done in either
one or two pitches.
- 5b Start at the obvious thin crack.
Climb this and gain the jug. Either climb the groove or swing left onto
the front and layback up until jugs and the spike belay can be reached.
- 5c Stand on top of the spike. A sequence
of moves leads rightwards until a triangular hold can be gained. From this
reach high for a layaway and move up to the base of the crack. Once
established in the crack wild laybacking leads to good jams. Continue up
the crack to an obvious rest. Move up and step left into the final
layback sequence… and the top.
Robin Richmond, Paul Bradshaw
18/2/01 Cliffe Hill Quarry
The Beast E4
6a
picture
Either abseil in from the top of
the crag or scramble up the boulders to the prominent groove on the left hand
side of the crag. Clamber up onto the top of a large block at the base of the
crack. Here awkward moves lead off up the crack. Follow the crack to a
'bomber' hand jam. The next few feet comprise of hard moves up the
increasingly thinner crack until the obvious horizontal break can be reached.
The final section is technical but the 'beast' rears it's head and starts to
overhang even more! Arms now starting to burn, move on up the sharp crack and
head rightwards onto the even steeper headwall. Move on up and a final long
reach brings the top.
A superb, sustained and technical
exercise, well worth a go.
Robin Richmond, Scott Chidlow.
Markfield Quarry
Double Diamond VS 4c
Start 3m right of Cracked Wall Direct below a big X
made by overcrossing cracks. Climb a short wall then straight up the middle
of two diamond shaped blocks on top of each other. Try to avoid stepping onto
the roof of Titch and Kwacker.
Greg Richards, John Devenport March 1997
MOUNTSORRELL
Soar Crag
Problem 5: Soar thing 5c
The arête. Mark
Goodwin 2 May 1993
HIGH SHARPLEY
Overhanging
Wall
Centre Crack
5b
With the aid of the obvious finger-crack climb the centre
of the wall using neither the left or right arêtes. Delicate.
Mark Goodwin 16 May 1993
Bluntley
Arête
5c
Using the diagonal break beneath the black overhang and the
rounded arête, mantelshelf and layaway until it is possible to reach the
obvious, small, blunt pinnacle. Mark
Goodwin 16 May 1993
Both
problems have poor landings
Note: Flake crag, Hilltop
crag and reservoir crag grid references should all have Northings of 171 –
not 161 as given in the guide.
Cookie
Monster
E1 6a
Between
‘Moon Shot’ and ‘Moon Shot Direct’.
Pull straight over the over-hang between the two later mentioned pinch
a small ledge, bring both feet up on the slanted slab for a smear, walk hands
up the small ridge laying body back to keep friction on the slab, reach with
one arm or a small well set dyno will bring you to the triangle-hole used on
‘Moon Shot Direct’. Finish up on
‘Moon Shot Direct’ or dyno for the small ledge to the right problem.
BRADGATE PARK
Stable Pit
I Can See Angel’s 6b+
Start with both hands on ledge right of ‘Iron Wall’ (far
right). Left foot in crack, right
foot smeary feature to right, pull either ledges (i.e. on crack for feet) for
crimp on ‘Iron Wall’. Finish on
sloper around the top.
Richard Fowler
MARKFIELD QUARRY
Groove D’Arête VS 4b
Belay
at the waterline in a niche 3m right of the start of ‘Chequered Slab’. Climb the wide groove on the left (flakes)
until it is possible to move athletically right onto the arête. Follow the arête to the top. Pleasant,
though slightly artificial. Colin
Knowles and Ian Carey 14 May 95
Branching
Out VD
Start
as for ‘Groove D’Arête’. Climb
the shot-hole groove, cross the arête above (keeping the rose on your
left!). Good belay, good runners and
two interesting moves make this currently dirty route worthwhile. C
Knowles & C Smart 21 May 1996
Double
Diamond
VS 4cStart 3m right of ‘Cracked Wall’ directly below a big ‘X’ by
over crossing cracks. Climb short
wall then straight up the middle of the diamond shaped blocks on top of each
other. Try to avoid stepping onto
roof of ‘Titch And Kwacker’. Greg
Richards & John Devonport March
1997
Hard
Rain Coming HVS 5a+, F6a.
Upper
Betty’s Slab, between ‘Celeste’ and ‘Quariantics’. Start directly onto the major slab, missing the major crack
lines trending left and right. Take a
direct line aiming for the overhang between two gorse bushes on fine
holds. Friend for safety at the
overhang (good crack) directly over overhang between gorses and back onto
more rounded and fine holds to the top.
Large nut in the last few feet.
Slightly to the right of the line: exit just to the right of the
hawthorn and belay off the trunks.
Reaching left or right onto the good crack lines at the start is not
on. Steve Ward & Ray Lindsay 9 May 1998
This
climb has probably been done before but it does not seem to appear on the
guide. It’s a good route and I think
it should be mentioned, regardless of the first ascentionist. We did it on 9th May 1998 just
before a cloudburst, and although protection is scant it is good.
Titch
& Hoot (variation finish) VS 4cStart as for ‘Titch and
Kwacker’. Finish rightwards via the
diagonal break. Pull over into the
niche. Mark Goodwin & Chris
Mitchell 4 Sep 1998
Steep
Walk
HVS 5b
Start
as for ‘Weak Walk’. Go straight up
into the niche via the steep crack.
Strenuous and worthwhile. Mark
Goodwin/Chris Mitchell 4 Sep 98
Sam’s
Arête 9m
E1 5b ** The
overhang right of ‘Elderberry Corner’.
Start on the small slab under the sloping roof, use a poor undercut in
the roof to gain a couple of shit holds, one on the arête and a left sloping
hold just left of the arête. Work
your feet up the stretch, lunge or dyno or the jug on ‘Sugar Daddy’. (Harder for the short). Then mantle carefully to gain another good
hold straight up, do not use the crack or slab and continue easily to
the top. A committing solo. Dave Hughes 18 Sep 1998 (solo)
Twice
My Height
4m 5b
Right
arête of the ‘Cioch Wall’, either side goes at 5b solo or extended boulder
problem. Dave Hughes 20 Sep 1998
POCKETGATE QUARRY
The
Green Party VS 4c
An
eliminate line between ‘Slip And Slide’ and ‘Central Crack’. Climb the base wall and then up the
apparently blank slab above using small edges. Surmount the head wall at the same point as central crack. Andy Pemberton & Noel Curtis 13 May
96
Probably
done before in the ‘50’s according to Ken Vickers, so not really a new route!
Yes,
when the slab was clean you could climb all over it at 4c/5a.
Yes,
done in the ‘50’s. Alan Griffiths
Hangingstone Quarry
A serious rock fall in region of Helloverhang.
THE BRAND
The
Wet Toothbrush 5b (boulder problem)
Traverses
below the roof between ‘Modular’ and ‘Mango’. Start on a side pull, pull under the roof and traverse right on
wonderful holds. Andy Pemberton
July 1996
Bradgate
Park, Stable Pit
Rising Traverse. 5c? *
Probably been done before but worth a mention for those who like Bradgate
Bouldering.
Start on the low jugs for the start of Biceps, move left towards the obvious
thin rising crack line at head hieght. Follow this on small crimps and
delicate footwork until its end and finish up Thin Ragged Crack Slanting Left.
Matt Barker, 2001
Granitethorpe Access
I am one of the local youths from sapcote and a regular visitor to the
granite. Some or your directions are becoming slightly inacurate due to
overgroth or better routes found. The amendments i would suggest are that
there is deffinatly no car access past the garages. This would have to be made
on foot. Also when approaching the gate on the west side of the granite the
entrance is imidiatly on your right after the gate. There is also another
acess point to the small grassy area on the south east side of the granite. if
you continue down the bridle way you will reach an open area which u currently
name as a possible parking area.There is an overgrown area on your left about
30 metres infront of u. There is an opening through it which leads to a small
fence. Climb over this and follow a walked path virtually straight ahead to u
reach the edge of the cliff. follow the hill down to your right its quite
steep but a fairly easy climb down if u use the log on the right as u walk
down. this will bring u out onto the grassy area which is a great area to
swim. There is from here an easy swim to the rock face that sticks out into
the middle of the quarry. there is a climb up here and we regulary use the
rocks for diving off. have fun be safe.goldie
Cliffe Hill, Leicestershire
news
If you want to do any of the routes in Cliffe Hill, I suggest you get
in and do them as quickly as
possible. The owners are currently draining the pool at the bottom and are
going to start working the face furthest from the road when the pool is empty.
This will eventually break through
into another pit.
There is a manned security hut at the entrance by the roundabout. The best way
in is therefore to park in the nearby motorway services and walk in. Access is
available from a number of points from the adjacent road. If you see a red
Toyota 4x4 coming, it's security. They will throw you
out and try to take a photo of you with a disposable camera. Prints are
apparently circulated to the owners, the security company and the police
although I struggle to see what interest they would have in them. Aug
2002
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