Carver's Rocks Routes

Local Links Leicestershire Climbs Leicestershire Intro & History NEW ROUTES Anchor Church Caves Bardon Hill Beacon Hill Blackbrook Reservoir Bradgate Park The Brand Cademan Woods & Broad Hill Carver's Rocks Cliffe Hill Quarry Craig Buddon Enderby Quarry Finedon Slabs Forest Rock Grace Dieu Viaduct and Craglets Granitethorpe Quarry Groby Industrial Estate Hangingstone Quarry Hangingstone Rocks High Sharpley Huncote Quarry Markfield Quarry Minor Outcrops and Boulders Morley Quarry Mountsorrel Crags Nunckley Quarry Oaks Pinnacle Outwoods Crag Pocketgate Quarry Slawston Bridge Whitwick Quarry Whitwick Rocks Climbing Walls Index

Introduction & Location The climbs are described from left to right. The first routes are under the trees. The first six are green and best left. 1 Jiggery 9m S 4a The left-hand of two cracks. 2 Pokery 9m VS 4c The right-hand crack, starting interestingly. 3 Carved Arête 9m HVS 5b Climb the arête keeping on the right-hand side. 4 Three Peg Wall 6m E1 6a * Climb the peg-scarred crack in the centre of the wall. Blow-torch essential. FFA Simon Pollard, June 1978. 5 Slimey 6m HVS 5a The corner, often green, just to the right of Three Peg Wall. 6 Pegs Climb 9m VD Climb the loose steep corner, finishing left. Green, vegetated and poor 7 Flakes 9m HVS 5a The sandy arête to the right of Pegs Climb, climbed on the left-hand side. 8 Sand Pie 6m D The dirty groove 13m right of Pegs Climb. 9 Canned Arête 6m S 4a The arête left of No Can Can. 10 No Can Can 6m VS 4c Climb the finger-crack just right of the arête, finishing to the right. 11 Eye for a Line 8m HVS 5b The crack line and overhang behind the tree, awkward at the top. I. Barnett and M. James. 12 The Snipe 8m VS 4c Start 2m right of Eye for a Line below an area of crumbling rock. Finish direct. 13 Holed Wall 8m VS 5a Start below a small hole in the rock at 3m and continue direct. 14 Brained Crack 8m HS 4b Climb the crack in the middle of the wall. Hard to finish. 15 Fingers 8m HVS 5b The thin crack line just to the left of Main Gully. 16 Main Gully 9m VD Climb the block-filled gully and up the tree roots. 17 Crete Arête 9m VS 4b Climb the left side of the arête to 5m then swing round to the right. 18 SP 1880 9m S 4a The crack just right of the arête, finishing to the left. 19 Main Street 9m VD Climb the deep crack moving left under the overlaps, to exit left of the oak tree. Or climb direct from below the tree (4b). 20 VC 1950 9m E1 6a * The sharp arête to the left of Zen, from the right-hand side. 21 Zen 9m E1 5c * Up the crack in the centre of the face, finishing direct over the two overhangs. 22 NiI 9m E2 5b Climb the slab to the right of the crack, finish direct. P. Stidever and M. James. 23 Nez 9m E3 6a Climb the crack just left of the gully. For a 5b variation, climb the first 4m of Zen, then traverse into Nez to finish. 24 Slab and Arête 9m S 4a The centre of the slab 4a - the left-hand arête of the slab 5b. 25 Nutcracker 9m D Climb the twin cracks, then step right to finish up the small arête. 26 Tantalum 9m HS 4b Start at "G.R. Oliver". Climb the crack and corner forming the left side of a square block. 27 D76 9m E1 5c * Climb the left-hand edge of the block. Sustained. 28 Gravure Arête 9m HVS 5b * Takes the bald right-hand arête starting from a boulder. 29 Corollary 9m E1 5b Boldly climb the square cut arête on the next block to the right. S. Pollard, 8 Sept. 1978. 30 Lingerficker 9m VS 4c Climb the cracked groove in the long wall by difficult laybacking. Has sometimes been called Fingerlicker. Several scrambles are possible on the blocks and easy slabs further to the right.