Granitethorpe Quarry Routes

Start left of the Great Slab where it is possible to scramble down to the water. Climb the slab following a very thin crack going slightly right. Once a horizontal crack is reached move left and finish as for Unlucky Dip.

I. Marchant and J. Warr, 14 July 1977.

3 The Rlpper 24m HVS(?) 5a

Abseil down the Great Slab to a small belay at the bottom left. Climb direct to the groove in the overhanging blocks at the top. A poor jam and a long reach take you over.

S. Neal, 1989.

4 The Weatherman 30m VS 4c

From the belay of The Ripper at the bottom of the slab climb direct for 3m. Large holds lead right to a small arête. Climb this with some delicate moves trending left at a slight easing in the angle. Top out on the left.

M. Smifh and G. Massey, 11 Apr 1974.

5 Great Whlte Whale 30m VD

Start on a small rock ledge 3m above the water on the right-hand side of the Great Slab (facing in). It is necessary to abseil down to here. Take a diagonal line up the slab to the block overhangs at the top and pull over these to finish.

M. Warburton and J. Wallis, April 1972.

6 Unlucky Dip 60m VS 4c

Start as for Great White Whale and traverse left about 7m above the water. Go up blocks and step with difficulty on to a smooth slab. Traverse a horizontal fault until below a fine vertical broken crack. Climb this to an earthy ledge then move left and ascend to the top. Can be split in several places.

D. Ball and A. Healy, Oct. 1972.

To the right of ihe Great Slab the face cuts back to form a bay bounded by earthy slabs. It is possible to scramble down here. To the right there is a series of obvious clean slabs and grooves.

7 Slab Route Direct 24m S

From the bottom of the large slab by some trees, ascend to the middle of the slab on small holds which often appear to be made of mud (they come off in your hands). No protection.

G. Kelham, 21 Dec. 1974.

To the right the slabs are cleaner. An abseil approach is easier but it is possible to traverse across.

8 Afternoon Stroll 24m HS 4b

To the right of Slab Route Direct there is a small hawthorn tree at the top of a groove. Start directly below this. Climb up a small corner where two slabs meet to get to a ledge. Go slightly left up a smooth concave slab to

another corner formed by an overlapping slab. Climb the corner and short wall on the right to finish by the tree.

G. Kelham, 21 Dec. 1974.

9 Picnic 21 m VS 4c

Climb the centre of the first slab on small holds and very poor rock. No protection.

10 Harry Is A Sandbag 21 m VS 4c

Climb the steep sidewall of the first groove. The crux is at 3m where the angle changes.

S. Neal, 1988.

11 Hydro 20m VD

Start beneath the first groove. The route takes the left ledge of the first clean slab direct, with an awkward mantleshelf move in the middle.

12 Hydrotactlc 20m VS 4b *

The obvious corner groove to the right is climbed direct all the way with some obvious laybacking.

J. Gale and K.S. Vickers, May 1972.

13 In Drag 18m E4(?) 6b

Start 3m up on Hydrotactic under a small overhang. Pull over this and follow the diagonal line through small roofs (the first is the crux). No protection after the first moves. Take care with loose rock.

S. Neal, 10 I July 1990.

14 Rock'n' Roll Suicide 16m E2(?) 5c

Start In Drag. Climb the easy groove along the overhang to an overhanging block. Gain this with high footholds (or dyno). Pull over to top. Poor protection.

S. Neal, 6 April 1990.

15 Rupert Goes Hiking 6m S

The obvious vegetated groove (grove?). The route is now so overgrown that only the top half is climbable. A direct start is possible to the left of Rock 'n' Roll Suicide, very nasty.

K. Vickers and J. Gale, June 1972.

16 Moon Age Day Dream 6m E1(?) 5c

This is the top half of an old route called Slab of the Evening Light (J. Gale, A. Ingram and K.S. Vickers, June 1972) which has become badly overgrown and fallen down. Abseil down to a small belay at half height.

Climb the wall using only holds on the wall to the overlap. Peg. Using a high foothold and small fingerholds step onto the wall. Peg. Belay 15m back on a small tree.

Reclimbed, S. Neal, 7Aug. 1991.

Across the other side of the quarry there is a large platform. Above it, on the left, is an overhanging arête.

17 Ghengis 7m E7(?) 6b

Climb the arête not using the crack on the right. Protection at about half height in the form of a small nut on top of a loose block. The nut also helps stop the block moving when you hang on it. On reaching the top of the arête (crux) there is no exit through the undergrowth. You should climb down or lower off from a rope hung over the top of the crag.

S. Neal, 4 Feb. 1992.

There are other quarries (or ex-quarries) on the Sapcote-Stoney Stanton axis.

From north to south:

BARROW HILL QUARRY (487972) has been largely filled in but still contains some rock exposure. Once had climbs.

YENNARD'S QUARRY (Parish Pit, Charity Ouarry or Rock Farm Ouarry) (489970) just south is flooded and used as a local water supply.

CLINT (or CLENT) HILL QUARRY (or Stoney Bottom Pit) (490949) is flooded almost to the brim and protected by an impenetrable fence and jungle. Visible from Huncote Lane.

CARY (or CAREY) HILL QUARRY (Includes Wood's Pit and Parish Pit (490946) was just over the wall by the cross-roads in the middle of Stoney Stanton. Now completely filled in.

STONEY COVE (or Lane's Hill Quarry, includes Top Quarry and Stoney Stanton Top Pit) (493942) is a diving centre and used for water-skiing. There is an extensive ring of cliffs but access is difficult. There is a car park in the quarry bottom, approached down the old railway. A pleasant spot on a sunny day but climbing on the rocks behind the car park would probably be dangerous, as well as a waste of time. It might be possible to hire a boat to take you round the bay to see the other cliffs. Access to some cliffs may be possible by a bay on the south side (approach as for Granitethorpe Quarry).

SAPCOTE QUARRY (497934) is just south of Granitethorpe Quarry on the north side of the road going into Sapcote from the east. It has also been called Lovett's Pit Parish Pit, Old Quarry and Windmill Quarry. It is mostly water filled but does have a considerable amount of overgrown rock exposure. Access would be difficult although it is possible to scramble down to a fishing spot in one place.

CALVER (or Cauver, or Canver) HILL QUARRY (497932) has now been completely filled in.