Markfield Quarry Routes |
|
Grace Dieu Viaduct and
Craglets Markfield Quarry |
Introduction and Location The quarry is a crater in the top of the hill. There
is an obvious extensive platform at the level of the hole in the fence above which
is the upper tier. Below is the water-filled tier with routes starting at the
waters edge. On the north side this platform has been quarried away and the
routes run the full height from the water to the top. In the south-east corner of
the upper tier there is a peninsular of rock running into the quarry (the
Betty Peg) and this has a fine rocky south face. The routes are described
for the UPPER TIER first, starting from the north
corner where the Upper Tier starts as a separate entity. This is across the
water from the flight of concrete steps (to a disused pumphouse) and near a
block which was once painted "I © TRACY". Tracy is obviously now unloved as the
sign is part obliterated, but still visible. On the left along a narrowing path there are several possible; lines.
The most obvious is: 1 BigCrack 9m not done Climb up to the obvious crack about 7m Ieft of the rockfall scar at the left end of the undercut slab. Make your way over the grass ledges to the top. Will be possible when the gorse bush occupying the crack is removed. 2 Concrete Banana 9m HVS Sb Start 5m Ieft of the rockfall scar. Climb slightly rightwards over overhangs to the left hand end of an obvious ledge at half height and below the notch of Wa7l Climb. Now, step boldly up round to the left onto a hanging slab (crux) and finish direct. C. Hunter, 7973. 3 Wall Cllmb 9m S 4a (Dead Bay Area) Start just left of the rockfall scar. Follow a leftward trending crack line to a sandy and tricky finish through the obvious notch and on to a wall of blocks in the mud, - or climb back down! 4 Trend Rlght
9m not done Follow Wall Climb to the obvious ledge at half height and the trend rightwards up the slab just above the rockfall scar. The next 6m of rock have suffered a number of rock falls and are in a dangerous condition. Just to the right of the rockfall is an excellent 6a boulder problem, trending leftwards up to the centre of a clean wall. Just right again a sandy slanting groove provides the next route. 5 Looseflake Crack 7m VS 5a (Dead
Bay Area) 2m left of the obvious corner of Dead Bay. Ascend the leftward trending fne to a tricky finish. H. Pell. 6 Speed Klng 8m E2 5b (Dead
Bay Area) An obvious challenge. A landmark you can't miss. Climb the S-shaped crack just left of Dead Bay. Strenuous, brutal and loose, - but protectable. J. Moulding, F Stevenson and S. Boothroyd, 1979. 7 Dead Bay 8m VS 4b (Dead Bay
Area) Climb the steep right-angled corner by bridging and long reaches. 8 Dead Arete 6m S 4a Climb the stepped arete to the right. There is now an easy way down. Just right is a small pedestal, 9 Cioch Wall 8m S 4a Climb the face of The Cioch to a grassy ledge. There is a rusty old bolt in the wall. Trend leftwards up the wall to finish. Twice
My Height
4m 5b 10 Cracked Wall 8m S Start 2m right of the bottom of The Cioch. Climb the
crack and the top wall above. Double Diamond
VS 4c There is now a loose section but 7m to the right of
Cracked Wall an obvious crack goes diagonally left. 11 Tltch and Kwacker 12m VS 4c (Grey Slab Area) Climb up to the crack. Ascend it, and step over the
large roof on the left to finish up the awkward corner. Tony Crofts and Brian McGaw, October 1978. Titch
& Hoot (variation finish) VS 4c There is now a loose section but
round to fhe right is a large slab, GREY SLAB. There are stake belays
at the top. 12 Left Arete 11 m VD (Grey Slab Area) Up the cracked groove of the left arete of the slab. 13 Left Edge 11 m VD (Grey Slab Area) About 2m right of Left Arete. Climb up over the
bulge and finish more easily. 14 BIackSlab 11m VD (Grey Slab Area) About 4m right from Left Arete. Climb up the middle
of the black slab, moving a little leftwards past a dovetailed shot-hole (if
you can find it). 15 Grey Slab 11 m S (Grey Slab Area) Climb straight up the slab about 2m left of the
hairline crack in the centre. 16 Gorse Slab 11 m VD (Grey Slab Area) Climb the slab following the continuous hairline
crack, a little right of centre. I 17 Just Right 11 m VD (Grey Slab Area) Straight up 2m right of the hairline crack of Gorse
Slab. 18 Babbles Bottom 1 1 m S ** (Grey Slab Area) The smooth slab just right of Just Right. Best at
the top. About 40m to the right a prominent nose sticks out
of the top of the blocks. 19 Nose Arete 6m S Step up from the left over the big roof and climb
the arete beneath the nose. About 12m further right, behind some trees, and
holding some hard problems is the clean short OVERHANGING WALL. 6b The left wall, trending right. 6b The centre groove direct. 5c Start to the right of the centre groove and reach
high and left for a square hold at the top of the groove. Pull up over into
the grass. 5b A rising rightward traverse to a large right
handhold by the grass. Get the top and pull over. The face now deteriorates. There is a vegetated
buttress beneath the trig. point (which may give a long route or two to those
with a strong stomach), and a wooded bay topped by the rocky ridge connecting
the Betty Peg to the trig point The next climbs are on the right hand
face of this bay on the north-east face of the BETTY PEG There is an
obvious sloping weakness starting from the right of the buttress. It looks
rubbish, but gives some good climbing. 20 Whlst 15m HS 4b Fight your way along the bottom under the wall for
10m. Straight up, over the little roofs and exit left. 21 Contract Bridge 17m S 4a Start below the leftward sloping little niche which
is about half way up the face. Climb straight up, into the niche, and step up
and left past a useful little gorse bush. Easily up left to finish. J. Tomkins and S. Keogh, 19 Jan. 1974. 22 Weak Walk Dlrect 20m VS 4c Start about 3m left of the right toe of the
buttress. Straight up a little groove and the bulge above to the slab of Weak
Walk. Left up this to the large block ledge below the top. Pull strenuously
up the wall on the right on good holds to the top. J. Tomkins and S. Keogh, 19 Jan. 1974. 23 Weak Walk 20m S 4a *** The star route. Start at the right hand toe of the
buttress by a short wall. Climb up and leftwards on to a leftwards-inclined
undercut slab. Up leftwards to the large ledge beneath the top overhangs.
Make an exposed swing up right on good holds to easy ground, and the top.
Much better than it looks. K.S. Vickers and G.W. Boulton, 1973. Steep
Walk
HVS 5b There is now a steep, muddy, easy way down and a
steep north-facing grass slope with a mossy slab at the bottom. The west tip of the Betty Peg is scarred by several
easy ways down. The next routes are round on the South Face of Betty Peg on BETTY'S
SLAB. They catch the full afternoon and evening sun and
provide routes of all standards. Ofen, the hardest moves are at the bottom
making soloing a reasonable option. Exceptionally for Markfield, there are
belays at the top. Routes are described from left to right. 24 Elderberry Crack 5m D Start at the left of the slab by a little triangular
cave behind the elder tree. Bridge up over the cave and up the slab to
finish. 25 Elderberry Corner 8m VD (Betty's Slab) Start behind the tree beneath the corner. Up a
little slab. Then pull boldly up the corner crack. Continue the line to
finish. Sam’s Arête 9m E1 5b ** 26 Sugar Daddy 9m HVS 5a (Betty's Slab) From Elderberry Corner reach up the arete for a jug
and make a bold swing up right, round on to the slab. Continue more easily.
It is possible to make two more moves up Elderberry Corner and step right on
to the jug making the climb Severe. 27 Gollywogs Cake Walk 25m VD * (Betty's Slab) Start at the bottom left of the slab by the
elderberry tree and make a rising rightward traverse across the face using
the obvious break for hands or feet as required. Finish just round the right
edge of the face. Can be split into two pitches. A long route for hereabouts. 28 Crown 10m S * (Betty's Slab) Start as for Gollywogs Cake Walk but continue
straight up the slab on good holds. 29 Hard Shoulder 10m HS
4b * Start 4m right of the
tree at a broken weakness. Up over the bulge and then more easily to the top.
R. Hazelwood, 1963. 30 Clearway 10m S ** (Betty's Slab) There are a row of six holes at the bottom of the
slab. Paleomagnetism studies by Leicester University? Start at the leftmost
hole. Straight up to the ledge at half height. On up the top wall past a big
jug in the fault line. 31 Go Home 12m D (Betty's Slab) Start between the middle pair of holes. Straight up
to the big ledge and on to the top by the easiest line. 32 Fast Home 15m M Start at the bottom right hand corner of the slab
and take the obvious weakness up to the left. At the back of fhe bay holding Betty's Slab there is
a rock step leading to the shorter second tier, UPPER
BETTY'S SLAB. This contains some superb rock problems, often close to the
ground. There are also some continuous longer routes but boldness is needed
on the rock of the uppermost section. Protection is minimal. 33 Bramble Edge 7m VD Start by the big blocks at the left. Up the polished
groove stepping right at the top. 34 Thorn 7m S 4c * (Upper Betty's Slab) Start in the obvious
scoop near the ground 1 m right of the left arête. Up the scoop. Pull out on
excellent fingerholds and then climb more easily to the top. 35 Fork 7m VS 5a Up the slab 2m right of Thorn using an undercut
flake. 36 Slow Home 7m S (Upper Betty's Slab) Climb the obvious polished weakness 4m right of the
left edge of the slab to just right of the birch tree at the top. This has a
useful root for a finishing hold. Mind the tree doesn't come out. 37 Teaspoon 7m S 4a Straight up the slab about 1.5m right of Slow Home.
Carefully over the blocks at the top or step left. 38 Nick's Way 7m HS 4b * (Upper Betty's Slab) Start 3m right of Slow Home
and follow a rising leftward line to finish by the birch tree. If you're
lucky the right hold appears at exactly the right time. 39 Kate 9m VS 4c
** (Upper Betty's Slab)
Named after the
bush. Start 4m right of Slow Home at a huge foothold. Straight up the slab
making a hard move (crux). Step right at the gorse bush (if she'll let you)
and up to a ledge below the final slab. Move up in a fine position to get the
jug. And so to the top. About 3m right of Kate is an obvious crack line
leading up to a mini slab below a roof. 40 Celeste 9m HVS 5a Up the slab just left of the crack line and finish
up Kate (with some cleaning of bushes separate finishes could be made). Hard
Rain Coming HVS 5a+, F6a. This
climb has probably been done before but it does not seem to appear on the
guide. It’s a good route and I think
it should be mentioned, regardless of the first ascentionist. We did it on 9th May 1998 just
before a cloudburst, and although protection is scant it is good. 41 Quariantics 13m HVS 5a (Upper Betty's Slab) Up the crack, traverse 3m
right across the mini slab below the overhang and finish boldly up the loose
top wall. D.N. Draper and K.S. Vickers, June 1963. 42 Phobos 13m HVS 5a No description, but you
can guess where it goes. 43 Cake Walk 25m
D (Upper Betty's Slab) Start at the foot of Ouariantics and follow the
rightward rising traverse line with an awkward move by the gorse bush on good
holds. Finish up the slab to the left. Just right of the Cake Walk is a desperate little
slab which gives a couple of problems getting off the ground. Then there is: 44 No Overtaking
12m D At the extreme right of the slab make your way
pleasantly up the cliff. 45 The Ramp 25m VS 4b Start at the bottom right hand corner of the slab
and traverse upward and leftwards along the fault line. Pass under the
overhang with difficulty but good holds. Finish up Kate (!) or traverse
through the gorse bushes which need cutting off. 46 Glrdle Traverse 30m VD 5a It is possible to traverse the whole length of Upper
Betty's Slabjust a few feet off the ground. Better than a climbing wall. Most of the Upper Tier on the way back to the
entrance hole in the fence is grass and gorse. There is a small wall of
worthwhile rock just off the track by the top of the concrete steps which
gives some problems. The LOWER TIER is partly
filled with water which makes access a problem, but adds spice to the
water-level traverses. The routes are described starting from the bay below
the "I ♥ TRACY" block. The bay catches the evening sun and
makes a good swimming spot. It can be reached by an easy scramble down. The
bay is across from the concrete steps that lead down to the disused pump
house. The bay is the starting point of Baptism, one of the best routes in
the quarry. A real hazard about soloing the traverse Iines above
the water is the possibility of falling off, banging your head and belng
unconscious in the water. It is best to have someone around who can pull you
out. 47 Baptism 50m VS 5b at high level . *** 4c for the low-level variant. E3 for non-swimmers From the bay walk around the grass bank. Up this and
traverse the undercut slab to its left-hand end. Move down across a steep
wall to a hard move into a dirty corner lapped by overhangs. There is an old
peg here. Traverse down across a wall to the left and continue
the traverse at water level enjoying the transformation from sound rock to
loose vegetated choss. D.T. Holyoak and P.J. Howard, Oct 1970. 4c low-level variant: if the water is low (and you
have long legs) it is possible to make a giant stride and pull across
underneath the initial overhang and continue to complete the first section. On the second section swing down the borehole on the
right and traverse left centimeters above the water. Rejoin the main
traverse. Impossible at high water. 48 Font 24m VS 5a Follow Baptism for 7m and then up the overhanging V
chimney. Up the groove above with a step up and right to join the top of
Hedgehog. Follow this unpleasantly to finish. D.T. and D.M. Holyoak, Sept i970. 49 Holey Water 40m VS A1 Start as for Baptism. Follow Baptism for 16m past
the hard move down to peg belays beneath overhangs left of the chimney taken
by Font. This point can also be reached by swimming, by reversing pitch 2 of
Baptism at VS, or by abseiling through a break in the overhangs to the left
and swinging in to the rock near water level. 11 m. Climb the shallow bulging chimney slightly
left of the stance, then an easier angled crack tending right to small stance
and peg belays. Four pegs used (removed) for direct aid; two might be enough
if they were already in place. 12m. Move up to right from stance to join Hedgehog
and follow this leftwards to finish through steep gorse. D.T. Holyoak and P. Moate, 14 Mar. 1974. 50 Hedgehog 20m S Start at the same point as Baptism. Walk across the
grass bank. Go up the slab to the right to gain the corner above. Follow this
for 5m then traverse left and up the gorse covered slab towards a small
hawthorn tree. Not worth the pain. The bay immediately below the "I ♥
TRACY" block has an overhanging wall from the left of which grows a
tree. The next two routes lie on either side of this wall. 51 Prickly Pair 6m VD Start just to the left of the tree and climb the
green crack onto the obvious block. Finish direct. 52 Prefabricated Pomegranite 7m S Climb the obvious leaning corner to the right of the
overhanging wall. The un-named arête to the right is also of interest. C.
Hunter and T. Brice, 25 Feb. 1973. The next few routes can be reached either by abseil
or by traversing above the water from the bay below the "I ♥
TRACY" block, towards the pumphouse steps. 53 Crab Crawl 15m S ** Traverse right (facing in) from the boulder beach
for about 15m until a downwards sloping ramp is reached. There is an obvious
crack line running up to the right. Follow the crack line and finish up a
steep little corner behind a hawthorn bush. 54 Tap Dance 20m VD Start about 3m right of
Crab Crawl (just left of Without Friction) below an obvious slanting ramp and
traverse up it in a fine position. Either finish up Crab Crawl or make a step
left round a band of poor rock to gain an easy rock ridge. Follow it
pleasantly to the top. There is an easy way down just left of this finish. 55 The Draln 15m
VD * Start just right
of Tap Dance at the foot of the corner that is the drain of the little pool.
Followthe corner until the delightful slab on the right provides cleaner
climbing. Better than it looks. 56 Wlthout Friction 15m VD Start at the foot of The Drain. Traverse right up on
to the slab, then follow the line of weakness past a tiny earth ledge,
keeping left at the top. Loads of friction. 57 Bic 10m VS 4c/5a Traverse the short obvious leaning wall midway between
Without Friction and Chequered Slab. It's obvious from the pumphouse steps.
Alan Little, 27 July 1981. 58 Chequered Siab 12m VS
4c ** (Chequered
Slab) Opposite the wall of Baptism
an obvious quartz-marked slab rises straight out of the water. Unfortunately
approach is by abseil and there is no stance at the bottom. Other routes
possible here. Groove
D'Arête VS 4b Belay at the waterline in a niche
3m right of the start of Chequered Slab (good belay). Climb the wide groove
on the left (flakes) until it is possible to move athletically right onto the
arête. Follow the arête to the top. Pleasant though slightly artificial. Colin Knowles, Ian Carey. 14/5/95 Branching
Out VD There are a
couple of mossy slabs to the right of Chequered Slab and to the left of the
pumphouse steps. There are some equally unattractive lines up
to the right of the steps. The next routes are 50m to the right (facing
rock), just below the way in and the hole in the fence. Immediately below the
road is obvious blank wall with a crumbling red brick wall above. POOL
WALL once rose out of the water, but refuse tipped from the road and the
recent drop in water level have removed the need for abseil approaches. All
routes are now approached via a steep ramp to the left of the wall (facing
in). 59 Dropsy 13m VS
4c (Pool Wall) A poor route taking the crack system on the left
hand side of the wall. Star1 directly below the crack. Up the wall to the crack.
Follow this to a loose earthy finish. 60 Plain Sailing 14m E2 5c ** (Pool Wall) Has been called Chariots of Fire (J. Codling and S.
Allen), and takes the centre of the wall past an obvious protection bolt.
(The bolt replaces a poor peg placed lower and to the right). Start at the
left-hand end of the obvious rising traverse line. Follow the break until
directly below the bolt Move up leftwards, clip the bolt (if you feel the
need) then make difficult moves up right and past it. Continue delicately but
more easily to the top P Stidever (solo), Apr. 1983. 61 Arrows of Desire 18m E3 6a * (Pool Wall) Traverse the break until about 2m from its end. Thin
moves lead straight up to a handy ledge and the top. S. Allen and J. Codling. 62 Puppy Love 16m VS 4c (Pool Wall) Also known as Burning Bow but unfortunately Puppy
Love came first, Called Gas Oven Traverse when using 2 pegs by M. Holfe and
A. Cuddy on 24 May 1972. Follow the obvious rising traverse line to its end
where loose rock and grass provide a tricky finish. Steve Davies and Mick Nadal, March 1980. 63 Scratchins 13m HVS 5b (Pool Wall) Start 4m left of the obvious corner of Trundlers
Reward. The climb has a serious feel as the rock is poor. The climbing
however is good and sustained. Ascend the crack and overhang (crux).
Continue, trending slightly rightwards to finish as for Puppy Love. Trevor Gunner and Colin Fowler, Sept 1978. 64 Crocodile Sandwich 13m no grade available The blank wall between
Scratchins and Trundlers Reward. Awaits a first ascent? 65 Trundlers
Reward 13m HS 4b (Pool Wall) Climbs the prominent corner crack to the right of the
wall. A difficult start enables the crack to be reached and followed to
another loose earthy finish. D.T. and D.M. Holyoak, Sept 1970. 66 Bigwlgs Bundle 13m E1 5a The unprotected arête to the right of Trundlers
Reward is climbed direct. A jungle bash is avoided by traversing into the
corner at the top. Continuing rightwards there is no climbing worthy of
record until the clean WHITE SLAB rises from the water
to the full height of the quarry. The right side (facing in) of the slab can
be reached by a path running down from the top. The slabs face south and
gorse is beginning to take over The gorse, however, is more solid than some
of the blocks at the top. 67 The Worm 25m VS 4b (machete for aid) Traverse left across the slab towards a small hawthorn
tree. Move up and then continue left below overhangs on vegetated ground to a
possible belay. Continue directly above to reach the large hawthorn by the
least vegetated route. Very unworthwhile. 68 Pink Slab 25m VS 4b Straight up the bulge in the centre of the White
Slab moving slightly right to an obvious scoop leading through the overlap.
Move left and up to the top. Now make your way up an unpleasant earth slope
to the safety of the gorse bushes. 69 White Slab 40m S 4a Traverse the White Slab from its bottom left corner
via the obvious line near its top edge to a vague and vegetated rib. Move up
to a vegetated ledge and get to the top. Makes a good finish to Baptism. D.T. Holyaok and Miss D.M. Sager, Sept 1969. 70 Soft Route 25m VS 4b Start 15m right of the White Slab and at the end of
the descent path where a prow of rock juts out above a clean slab. Climb the
slab and continue awkwardly up the obvious corner to the right of the prow
onto a large vegetated ledge. Move up left and finish via a vegetated slab. 71 Decrepitation 25m HVS 4c Start at the groove line 8m further right. Climb
this on frighteningly loose blocks to awkwardly and boldly exit left to
finish as for Soft Route. 72 Trepidatlon 23m VS 4c Start up the leaning rib on the right of the
buttress leading up to the overhang. Surmount this awkwardly to a slab and
traverse left to finish as for Soft Route. Half way down the path leading to White Slab there
is a small bay, MASTER'S WALL. This has some superb
unclimbed clean south-facing steep rock. Nearby are the ALTAR STONES (484109) with a spectacular fractured
cockscomb ridge which, sadly, gives no climbing. They are public open space
and, although noisy, are good for a picnic. |