The Brand Routes

 

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Leicestershire Climbs

 

Leicestershire

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Hangingstone Rocks

 

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Markfield Quarry

 

Minor Outcrops and Boulders

 

Morley Quarry

 

Mountsorrel Crags

 

Nunckley Quarry

 

Oaks Pinnacle

 

Outwoods Crag

 

Pocketgate Quarry

 

Slawston Bridge

 

Whitwick Quarry

 

Whitwick Rocks

 

Climbing Walls

 

Index

 

 

 

 

Introduction & Location

 

THE CLIMBS

The crag can be split into two distinct sections. Firstly, there is Dry Walls on the right hand side (looking from across the pool) where the climbs can be approached by abseil down Mango onto solid ground or, by traversing from the right-hand side at the base of the crag. The Water Walls which lie to the left above the pool have peg/nut belays at the base of the routes but are approached by abseil or rubber dinghy!

 

Climbs are described from right to left as one looks across the Perch Water. The first route encountered on the DRY WALLS along the traverse from the right side of the crag is:

 

1 Fisher 18m VS 4c

Climbers have been heard fibbing in pubs about the size of the blocks that "got away". Climb the rightward slanting fissure to the top. Loose and best left.

 

2 The Shallows 1 8m S 4a

Climbs the next shallow groove to the top of the crag; the water beneath is shallow (and getting shallower each winter).

 

3 Sailaway 20m HVS 5a ***

Climb the "S" shaped crack by strenuous and painful hand jamming. Care is needed at the top with loose rock. An excellent route and a yardstick of its grade. Now worryingly hollow and one feels something big is going to come off sooner or later.

S. George, Bud Metcalf, Robin Prager and Ken Vickers, July 1965.

 

To the left lies an obvious corner. A route has been climbed up its right wall at E1 5b but is not worth recording. Next is:

 

4 Mango 18m VS 4c *** (Dry & Water Walls)

A Leicestershire classic at its grade. The obvious line. Climb a corner by a series of superb laybacks and jams. Reputedly climbed solo by Sir Andrew's father before the war.

Ken Vickers and Dave Draper, Aug. 1964.

 

5 Gujerati Girl 23m E5 6a

A route that is not technically desperate but incredibly bold. From a ledge one third of the way up Mango finger traverse horizontally onto the left wall of Mango. At a thin blind flake move up (very deep breath) and climb diagonally up to a thin loose crack, and onto a ledge (good rest). Continue to a good peg (1st runner since Mango) and climb the blind shallow groove above to finish.

S. Allen and M. Chaney, 1988.

 

Further to the left a prominent sinuous crack in the right wall of the next corner gives:

 

6 Modular 15m E3 6a *** (Dry & Water Walls)

Climb the thin widening crack with good protection and very hard moves to start. It is possible to traverse in from the boulders on the left at half height and climb the crack at E1 5c (M. Haffner, 5 Aug. 1982).

Derek Gamble, Rick Hudson and Ken Vickers (Aid), Nov. 1965. FFA Steve Allen and J. Codling, 1983.

 

7 Third Time Lucky 9m HVS 5a (Dry & Water Walls)

Climb the short corner above the jumbled blocks. Dirty but with some fine moves. Ken Vickers and Rick Hudson, 1964.

 

8 Loose Leaf 12m E1 5a (Dry & Water Walls)

This route skirts the right side of the walls above the pool. Climb up from the top of jumbled blocks on the left of the corner to a detached pillar below a shallow groove/flake line, finish up this.

M. Hood and S. Allen, June 1988.

 

The following routes are all on the WATER WALLS and are described from right to left. The best method of keeping ones ropes dry is to uncoil them into a rucksack which can be clipped into the belay.

 

9 Suffragette City 18m E4 5c (Dry & Water Walls)

The original route on the Water Walls, 6m left of Loose Leaf. This climb provides an exciting dry belay with climbing requiring a cool approach (or you'll get a cool finish). Start by abseiling down to a foot square rickety pedestal protruding from the pool and belay to the peg runner 3m above. Climb the steep wall above the belay rightwards past the tree (1st runner) to a poor peg runner, traverse right for 2m and gibber up the flake/groovelet above (crux).

Steve Allen and Ms L. Travers, 1987.

 

10 Dinghy Days 15m VS 4c * (Dry & Water Walls)

Left of Suffragette City is a gully; 5m further left is a flake line. Belay at the peg left of the gorse bush then climb the rightward trending flake to a small sloping ledge and go left up the blocky finish.

Ms L. Travers and Mike Hood, June 1988.

 

Left again is a prominent large overhanging groove which is left unclimbed due to the rare plant life in the back. This should not be disturbed.

 

11 Rurp The Wild Berserk 21m E6 6b (Water Wall)

A route for the bold and talented, or high divers who like shallow water. This climb takes the prominent wall to the left of the large overhanging groove. Belay on the abseil rope on the right-hand side of the wall. Climb leftwards on reasonable holds (unprotected) to a rurp runner at 12m. Move diagonally right (hard) to a rurp runner, climb up and right to the top.

S. Allen, T. Reynolds, June 1988.

 

12 Fish Out of Water 18m E2 5c ** (Water Wall)

Abseil from the only tree above the Water Walls to a peg belay 2m above the pool. Climb directly to the tree at the top of the wall passing a poor peg runner at 15m.

E. Jones and L. Travers, April 1988.

 

13 Rhythm Collision 21 m E5 6b *** (Water Wall)

Rhythmically between Puccini and Punk Rock. A sustained, strenuous and very technical exercise. Climb the steep groove 10m left of Fish Out of Water from a peg and RP belay past 4 peg runners, with some moves on the arÍte. On an aided attempt on this route about 1976 lan Dring ripped out all the gear and ended in the pool.

E. Jones and J. Mitchell, June 1988.

 

14 Splash 21 m E3 5c ***

The climb takes the discontinuous flake crack in the wall to the left of Rhythm Collision from a nut belay 1.5m to the left (Rocks 3 and 4) at water level. Move diagonally right and climb the flake crack (in situ wire).

J. Mitchell and E. Jones, June 1988.