Hangingstone Rocks Routes |
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Grace Dieu Viaduct and
Craglets Hangingstone Rocks |
The routes described here are reproduced from the old guide with little alteration. MAIN OUTCROP The climbs are described starting
from the back and moving right. 1 Zlmmerman Wall 4m VS Up the wall immediately to the
left of the Shelter Stone (the large overhanging block) by awkward
semi-layback. Also a hard unclimbed arête. The Boulder is a large block to
the right of the Shelter Stone and gives 2 Face Route 6m HS Go up the right-hand side of the
face on small holds. 3 Easy Route 6m S Runs up the left edge. Difficult
to start with a most unpleasant landing. Coming round on to the Main Face
the first climb on the left is: 4 Crossed Arms Route 7m VD Up the well-scratched corner
moving left at the top. 5 NiI Desperandum 7m S Up the crack that widens into a V cleft. The normal technique is to hand traverse up the crest and then to move into the cleft. The Direct Finish is HS. 6
The Grlffln 7m S About a foot to the right of Nil
Desperandum and using none of its holds. Consists of a layback on one's
jammed thumb and then a cheval up the small arête. Very artificial. 7 Deceptive Chimney 4m M The next obvious groove right. 8 Haunch of Pegasus 6m S (Main
Outcrop) An extremely strenuous arm pull
over the conspicuous haunch of rock. 9 Stride and Flake 6m VD (Main
Outcrop) A route with character. Go up to
the left of the flake until a good pull can be had under the flake. Stride
round, and up. 10 Flake Crawl 7m VD An artificial route which starts
direct from the bottom and goes under the flake without using it as a
handhold. The antics of the leader can be highly amusing. 11 His Nut 7m S (Main
Outcrop) Go straight over the ominous bulge
on the right to a delightful finish on some useful jugs. Four Routes Wall is to the right. With all climbs
on this wall one has to be ethically strict if the grades are to be
meaningful. There are cracks dividing the wall into slabs. All the footholds and
handholds in the cracks are forbidden (Route 1 is an exception). 12 Route 1 9m VD (Main Outcrop) A very well worn route that still
has a little character. 13 Route 2 9m S (Main
Outcrop) From a sloping foothold about 1 m
up reach for the undercut leaf of rock. Pull outward and feel for a hold with
the free hand. Finish with a delicate problem mantleshelf. 14 Route 3 9m S Utilising very small holds go up
the centre of the slab with an interesting balance move at the top. 15 Route 4 9m M Up the groove on the right. 16 Cracks Route 6m M Up the parallel cracks 17 Girdle Traverse 35m S Start on the right. Cross Four
Routes Wall and reverse the top half of Stride and Flake. Make an exposed swing
over the Haunch of Pegasus. Easy going until Nil Desperandum is reached.
Almost all the way down this until a swing can be made round a corner on to
Crossed Arms Route. Up this to finish. BEACON VIEW OUTCROP (523151) About 200m to the south of the Main
Outcrop is a steep little crag facing The Beacon. 18 The Arête 6m M The prominent rib on the left-hand
side. 19 Rift Route 7m M Up the slab to the left of the
long groove. 20 The Rift 7m S The long groove in the centre of
the face. 21 Oak Tree Slab 10m S Straight
up or just right of the curious pock hold. Finish over the overhang on good
holds. 22
The Nose 3m VD From the branches of the oak go
straight up on small holds. PINNACLE CRAG (522152) Another craglet about 100m west of
Beacon View 23 Pinnacle Route 7m VD Up the face of the pinnacle. Slide
down the other side and then easily to the top. 24 Pinnacle Wall 6m M On the
left up through the branches. |