Hangingstone Rocks Routes

 

Local Links

 

Leicestershire Climbs

 

Leicestershire

Intro & History

 

NEW ROUTES

 

Anchor Church Caves

 

Bardon Hill

 

Beacon Hill

 

Blackbrook Reservoir

 

Bradgate Park

 

The Brand

 

Cademan Woods & Broad Hill

 

Carver's Rocks

 

Cliffe Hill Quarry

 

Craig Buddon

 

Enderby Quarry

 

Finedon Slabs

 

Forest Rock

 

Grace Dieu Viaduct and Craglets

 

Granitethorpe Quarry

 

Groby Industrial Estate

 

Hangingstone Quarry

 

Hangingstone Rocks

 

High Sharpley

 

Huncote Quarry

 

Markfield Quarry

 

Minor Outcrops and Boulders

 

Morley Quarry

 

Mountsorrel Crags

 

Nunckley Quarry

 

Oaks Pinnacle

 

Outwoods Crag

 

Pocketgate Quarry

 

Slawston Bridge

 

Whitwick Quarry

 

Whitwick Rocks

 

Climbing Walls

 

Index

 

 

 

 

 

Introduction & Location

 

The routes described here are reproduced from the old guide with little alteration.

 

MAIN OUTCROP

The climbs are described starting from the back and moving right.

1 Zlmmerman Wall 4m VS

Up the wall immediately to the left of the Shelter Stone (the large overhanging block) by awkward semi-layback. Also a hard unclimbed arÍte.

 

The Boulder is a large block to the right of the Shelter Stone and gives

 

2 Face Route 6m HS

Go up the right-hand side of the face on small holds.

 

3 Easy Route 6m S

Runs up the left edge. Difficult to start with a most unpleasant landing.

 

Coming round on to the Main Face the first climb on the left is:

 

4 Crossed Arms Route 7m VD

Up the well-scratched corner moving left at the top.

 

5 NiI Desperandum 7m S

Up the crack that widens into a V cleft. The normal technique is to hand traverse up the crest and then to move into the cleft. The Direct Finish is HS.

 

6 The Grlffln 7m S

About a foot to the right of Nil Desperandum and using none of its holds. Consists of a layback on one's jammed thumb and then a cheval up the small arÍte. Very artificial.

 

7 Deceptive Chimney 4m M

The next obvious groove right.

 

8 Haunch of Pegasus 6m S (Main Outcrop)

An extremely strenuous arm pull over the conspicuous haunch of rock.

 

9 Stride and Flake 6m VD (Main Outcrop)

A route with character. Go up to the left of the flake until a good pull can be had under the flake. Stride round, and up.

 

10 Flake Crawl 7m VD

An artificial route which starts direct from the bottom and goes under the flake without using it as a handhold. The antics of the leader can be highly amusing.

 

11 His Nut 7m S (Main Outcrop)

Go straight over the ominous bulge on the right to a delightful finish on some useful jugs.

Four Routes Wall is to the right. With all climbs on this wall one has to be ethically strict if the grades are to be meaningful. There are cracks dividing the wall into slabs. All the footholds and handholds in the cracks are forbidden (Route 1 is an exception).

 

12 Route 1 9m VD (Main Outcrop)

A very well worn route that still has a little character.

 

13 Route 2 9m S (Main Outcrop)

From a sloping foothold about 1 m up reach for the undercut leaf of rock. Pull outward and feel for a hold with the free hand. Finish with a delicate problem mantleshelf.

 

14 Route 3 9m S

Utilising very small holds go up the centre of the slab with an interesting balance move at the top.

 

15 Route 4 9m M

Up the groove on the right.

 

16 Cracks Route 6m M

Up the parallel cracks

 

17 Girdle Traverse 35m S

Start on the right. Cross Four Routes Wall and reverse the top half of Stride and Flake. Make an exposed swing over the Haunch of Pegasus. Easy going until Nil Desperandum is reached. Almost all the way down this until a swing can be made round a corner on to Crossed Arms Route. Up this to finish.

 

BEACON VIEW OUTCROP (523151)

About 200m to the south of the Main Outcrop is a steep little crag facing The Beacon.

 

18 The ArÍte 6m M

The prominent rib on the left-hand side.

 

19 Rift Route 7m M

Up the slab to the left of the long groove.

 

20 The Rift 7m S

The long groove in the centre of the face.

 

21 Oak Tree Slab 10m S

Straight up or just right of the curious pock hold. Finish over the overhang on good holds.

 

22 The Nose 3m VD

From the branches of the oak go straight up on small holds.

 

PINNACLE CRAG (522152)

Another craglet about 100m west of Beacon View

 

23 Pinnacle Route 7m VD

Up the face of the pinnacle. Slide down the other side and then easily to the top.

 

24 Pinnacle Wall 6m M

On the left up through the branches.